cool thanks. wp chop shop it is.
i quickly dismissed belt routing it out because of up and over water pipe location. I guess out and around is possible with the fan stuck to the rad, but then there is oddball belt length....pita

and drow, I'm not really worried about it. I figured I'd get an electric fan and will need that stuff anymore so might as well recoup that tiny bit of mpg and hp.

the electric pump has been installed for a couple months. completely eliminated heat soak, but we haven't hit the triples yet. with the stat gone it should be more efficient, esp in winter. the controller and sensor set up is pretty accurate. it gets to set temp and only varies +/- 1degree....works for me. also a little ghetto bonus feature I came up with is a super efficient bleed system . circulate cold coolant engine off.

 

You should wire a kill switch into your ignition connected to the pump. So if the pump ever fails or stop's working efficiently you wont blow a head gasket. You could probably catch the pump slowly failing, but if that electric motor just poops out it could be trouble.

 

meh, i don't have one on my serp belt.
but good advice. it would be pretty easy...already have a toggle kill installed, so its wired out..

 

Just as a precaution, an experiment can go both ways and always requires tweaking, plus you've done a lot of work on Yoshimi

 

Dusty with all those pipe fittings your engine bay is looking more like a Hot Water Heater.

 

True Dane, it is a good precaution . But I was under the impression that these engines were bullet proof and could handle several overheating episodes with no effect
And yeah Ralph, I bent and welded some galvanized to replace that junk pile, but need to dump the stat first . And I may be too stupid to figure out connections w/o using a little rubber

 

It's a neat setup if it all works out down the road I'll do it myself (your the Guinea Pig) I'm in desert also and its common to see 110+ temps out here in the summer.


Although, (just a suggestion ) if your going to put metal in there I would say find some aluminum tubing instead of galvanized steel. You wouldn't have dissimilar metals in your cooling system, and aluminum is good for heat transfer, it might drop your coolant intake temps by like .0003 also.


All in all though, your probably right about these motors. If it can take me to the nearest shopping mall and crawl some parking lot dividers I'm happy. Plus the rough idle and cam knocks at idle just remind me that it's still running.

 

Yeah, Getting rid of that loud fan will probably allow me to hear all kinds of new noises..yikes

 

Update:
Works perfectly, but found out why instructions say absolutely do not place controller under hood. It gets hot and start popping fuses. Moved it back inside the cabin and all is well.
An extra special added feature is that the added water pressure, makes a teeny tiny head gasket leak noticeable. I can't smell or have any sign of the leak with the water pump off, but oddly enough with it on the slightest bit of Coolant escapes at the back of the passenger side. This should be a quick and simple fix because I am going to consider it a water pump gasket and not a head gasket

 

Ok I totally missed this. Dusty do you have any final pics?