ELECTRICAL EXPERT NEEDED. ecu/harness/ fuse box ?
I bought a 99 d2 for cheap, thinking I could fix. Truck had no instrument lights, no chimes, radio, etc. Compression good on engine, fuel good..once I replaced pump. New Cpk. Previous owner replaced head gaskets. Got it started but horrible backfire that blew muffler in half. Would only run for seconds and backfire horribly. Checked Maf and Aic with parts from a working spare d2. Coil removed and tested good. CrNk sensor was rigged with what looked like an extension cord wire near the passenger firewall (and extended for easy access I assume) . I replaced the extension with shielded wire and soldered the connections and shielded. I pulled the ecm and cleaned, pulled engine fuse box and cleaned. After cleaning fuse box and Ecu I GET ALL FUNCTIONS, RADIO WORKS, ALL DASH LIGHTS UP, DOOR CHIMES, BUT I HAVE THE FLASHING M&S WITH THE SECURITY LIGHT SOLID. I can play around with the immobilizer steps to get it to crank but those lights remain. I can get it to start for a few seconds but it still backfires. Have I triggered a security alarm? Or am I just at square 1 with the issues since I can finally see the dash lights.? AM ABOUT TO JUNK THIS POS
Also forgot to mention. Once the engine comp fuse box was cleaned, the gear shifter won't move. It's locked in place.
and previously,, At one point before all of this new madness, after I cleaned up the jank wiring on crank sensor, it started, ran, and I drove it around the neighborhood for 10 minutes.. its possible I over fi)ed the oil...it was leaking badly from valley pan from Intake (another issue)
and previously,, At one point before all of this new madness, after I cleaned up the jank wiring on crank sensor, it started, ran, and I drove it around the neighborhood for 10 minutes.. its possible I over fi)ed the oil...it was leaking badly from valley pan from Intake (another issue)
Im getting a solid light on my security system. Ran codes tonight got p1884 and 1668 security A: alarm tripped... everything ive read says the BCM is on tight lockdown and somehow ive tripped the alarm.
I did clean the ecm and removed the fuse panel. I don't have a working key fob to disarm. I may have tripped the security system.
only option is new BCU? My instrument cluster stopped working again, the only lights I see is the security light with constent red light. I can disconnect battery and get a crNk but the light comes back.
Definate security issue. Was able to disable using unlock codes from door lock, briefly. I have to do this now every time I remove the battery cable. Crank no start, i smell gas but only 11psi from rail. I thought it may be interference from the hacked ecu wire to cps, I shielded this connection very well, with a second new bosch cps sensor.
None of this happened until I cleaned out the engine fuse box. M&S LIGHTS, WIERD TEMP GAUGE GOING TO MAX WITH RED LIGHT WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING, TRANS BOX STUCK IN PARK.
Could I have pinched or missed a main battery line? Acting like I don't have batt volts but I have it hooked to a constant charger .
the misfire I think was a junky connection to cps. I hope
None of this happened until I cleaned out the engine fuse box. M&S LIGHTS, WIERD TEMP GAUGE GOING TO MAX WITH RED LIGHT WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING, TRANS BOX STUCK IN PARK.
Could I have pinched or missed a main battery line? Acting like I don't have batt volts but I have it hooked to a constant charger .
the misfire I think was a junky connection to cps. I hope
I meant 11 v to the fuel pump, not psi. But I have constant14v to battery on a charger. CODES are 1843 and 1842. CAN timeout monitoring. Cranks but no spark. When the dash lights work(randomly) the M and S lights flash, shifter is locked in park no lights at all on shifter.
I pulled the connectors and fuses, checked everything with ohm meter. Cleaned up ground points.
Is there any way I can test for a power drain, or if something is dropping voltage after it leaves the battery?
I pulled the connectors and fuses, checked everything with ohm meter. Cleaned up ground points.
Is there any way I can test for a power drain, or if something is dropping voltage after it leaves the battery?
Okay my own stupid question led me to check grounds. Sorry I'm a female with above average mechanic skills (for a fem) but low to average compared to the rest. I was offered more than I paid for it from the junkyard. May just scrap it. I hate to, really wanted a mate for my other D2. Especially when my gut tells me it's fixable


