Help me out here, if the stock relief valve setting is 8-11 psi, and your hot idle reading ( lowest reading) is say 14 psi, aren't you bypassing the filter all the time?

 

gsxranger - take a read here you are not following how that valve works Oil relief valve

 

Accumulator, T fitting, electric solenoid valve
Hi all, read the whole thread and I am convinced that pre-oiling and frequent oil/filter changes are the answer to many of the Land Rover's engine woes. I think my 2007 LR3 SE with the Ford 4.0 V6 is infamous for timing chain issues but when I replaced it I installed a Moroso accumulator with electric solenoid valve (timed) to prelubricate the engine for 5 seconds when you turn the key to position 2.You see the oil pressure light go out, wait 5 seconds then start the engine, the timer keeps the solenoid valve open for about 50 seconds so the engine pumps oil back into the accumulator after engine start and then closes the solenoid valve, storing about 1 quart of oil at about 55psi and ready for the next engine start, when the process is repeated. The previous owner of my LR3 (250,000 Km) had followed Land Rover's 12,000 Km oil change recommendation and suffered a blown engine, which when we took it apart was very dirty inside. I change oil every 5,000 Km (about 3,000 miles) and use a Ford Motorcraft filter and Castrol synthetic 5W-30, but also have installed the Moroso ever since dropping in the used Ford Ranger 4.0 V6. I expect that the maintenance/accumulator combination will cause the engine to last for many years of trouble free operation. I installed a "T" at the engine oil pressure sender tap on the block and put the sender on one side and the Moroso connected via AN6 hose to the other side. Is this THE answer? Maybe not, but it definitely works, the engine is never, ever, ever dry started, at oil change time just floor the accelerator pedal to crank up and charge the accumulator, then start normally. Or you could just start it normally, one sort of near dry start every 3,000 miles probably isn't significant...

This is a great thread, thanks for sharing...

 

I wonder if the bad advice is on purpose to keep the dealer service center busy after the warranty expires. I mean they give such choss advise. Like flush your coolant after 10 years. Or replace your transmission filter at 50,000 KM then never again .. and no new trans fluid never needed.

I followed this chonkers advise on my Discovery 2 ... now having transmission problems.

 

Well, I'm doing what I think is right, although I've upped the oil change interval to every 7500 Km, still using 5W-30 synthetic and Ford oil filters, I suppose whatever one is comfortable with is the right path, fluids do eventually break down/become contaminated so they do need to be renewed periodically. The intervals are the questionable bit...

 

Just an update. I have been using these filters on dozens of Disco 2s for over 10 years now and have never had a filter related issue. The oil pressure bypass question on startup is a valid one, but you have to remember that the oil filter is not blocking 36psi before it opens, that is just the pressure needed through the pleats before the relief opens. The engine bearings and oil passages through the heads themselves are way more of a bottleneck than the filter pleats, even ice cold. the pressure is always going to be higher AFTER the filter than before. IE: Your Engine restriction is 20 PSI hot, it takes 5 PSI to push the oil through the filter your pressure at the pump is 20 PSI. Let's say your filter is completely clogged. The bypass on the filter opens, you still have 20 PSI restriction through the engine but it takes 36 PSI to push through the filter. The pump is 36 PSI but still providing full oil pressure to the engine. The pump doesn't care what the pressure to the oil filter is. The important part is that the volume of the pump can keep up with the wear of the bearings. Less oil pressure AFTER filter = more oil VOLUME being used = more wear in bearings. Keep in mind with this filter you also have 2x the filter area for oil to flow through, cutting the pressure needed to filter the oil.