End All answer to stupid oil questions.
#263
10-21-2018, 11:55 AM
TReK
I’m on to Mobil 301, Castro’s 10w 40 conventional with zddp additive. I love the 15w 40 Rotella, but 10w-40 suits the temps I run in better.
I buy into the synthetic leaks more, and that our engines were designed for conventional, but that is more a feeling than anything. I like changing oil more often vs running synthetic longer. Oil is recyclable, and I like to keep the engine clean.
I buy into the synthetic leaks more, and that our engines were designed for conventional, but that is more a feeling than anything. I like changing oil more often vs running synthetic longer. Oil is recyclable, and I like to keep the engine clean.
#264
10-21-2018, 03:54 PM
TReK
I think everyone puts to much brain power into oil. I bet you you could run any oil and get the same results I chose synthetic because it's suppose to not break down under high temps. Our engines run hot
I'm a contractor and have been running Chevy vans forever. Sometimes the oil doesn't get changed for 10-20 k the idle forever always tons of weight in the back stop and go traffic etc. And they run forever
I'm a contractor and have been running Chevy vans forever. Sometimes the oil doesn't get changed for 10-20 k the idle forever always tons of weight in the back stop and go traffic etc. And they run forever
#265
10-21-2018, 06:47 PM
There is a whole forum (BITOG) dedicated just to oil-obsessing people, so it's not likely this thread will ever be conclusive. I'm too am skeptical that we have any power to significantly change our experience and results with a single engine just by using different filters, 10W vs 15W, conventional vs synthetic, etc. Those differences are only likely to be statistically significant with large populations such as fleets and with respect to Discovery owners that would be all of them collectively. Despite this rationalization, I could still covet the oil filter relocation kits that let one mount filter(s) remotely. There are universal spin-on versions, but Rimmer Bros. has one that replaces the Rover V8 oil pump cover with NPT take-offs. If it wasn't so costly, I would install that with braided steel lines and AN fittings to a cartridge-type filter, and wouldn't be limited to 3/4"x16 spin-ons. As for bypass pressure and anti-drainback valves, that could all be accomplished independently of the filter cartridges. It's also possible to do HE 3-micron bypass filtering. But all of this would be wasted effort and expense on a tired Rover V8. Maybe someday I'll build something that merits an interest in such things, but anyone with an early Discovery has better things to concern themselves with.
#266
10-21-2018, 07:05 PM
Camel Trophy
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: St. Clair County, Michigan
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I believe everyone, well not everyone...because l don't, waste to much brain power on oil, filters and such. That was my point when l commented earlier on post #255, just get a good filter, good oil and change it regularly and keep the air filter fresh...and that is plenty. All of this wasted time and energy discussing such nonsense about micro this and micro that, blah, blah, blah...is just plan stupid. After forty years of being a mechanic and going to about five dozen oil/filtration clinics over the years...this all doesn't matter. Just change it (using the manufacturers recommendations), use a good filter...and drive it. If it is going to fail...it's going to fail...regardless. Normally, it's an underlying condition that causes a failure or lack of maintenance...not whether or not you use a 25 micron filter over a 20 micron.
Brian.
Brian.
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#267
10-21-2018, 08:38 PM
Super Moderator
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Richard Gallant (10-22-2018)
