Engine Install Next Steps
Got the engine on a stand and am a bit flummoxed on the next steps. Pulled it out of an 04 to drop into an 03, did the headgaskets, water pump and oil pump, also replaced timing kit, sump gasket, and front/rear crank seals. The harness is still off the engine, as are the exhaust manifolds and intake plenum. What's the logical approach for next steps? Harness first? Engine in and mounted to the trans first? Manifolds? I'm trying to streamline the reinstall and not create more work by doing certain steps before others and having to go back, or making something more difficult because of something I did out of order. I really have no recollection of how the harness routes but have lots of pics for reference. I'd appreciate any pointers on the best method of attack here from some of you veterans.
As an aside, the bags with the lifters got oily and some of the Sharpie writing came off. I can't be certain I got them all back in the correct holes. The pushrods are back in the way that they came out but how nervous should I be about some (or many) misaligned lifters? The engine has 175k and there were no issues with it when it came out. The scope of the job was to resurrect a death VIN 03 using the driveline from a terminally frame-rusted 04. I did the engine work simply because it was out, not to try and correct anything. I will prob drive the truck less than 5k miles a year and in the 10k I've already driven it, I've never revved it over 3k. A new cam and lifters are certainly cheap enough but I don't know if I should care given the intended use. Not to mention, the engine is all sealed up and I'd prefer not to tear back into it, unless not doing so is certain disaster.


As an aside, the bags with the lifters got oily and some of the Sharpie writing came off. I can't be certain I got them all back in the correct holes. The pushrods are back in the way that they came out but how nervous should I be about some (or many) misaligned lifters? The engine has 175k and there were no issues with it when it came out. The scope of the job was to resurrect a death VIN 03 using the driveline from a terminally frame-rusted 04. I did the engine work simply because it was out, not to try and correct anything. I will prob drive the truck less than 5k miles a year and in the 10k I've already driven it, I've never revved it over 3k. A new cam and lifters are certainly cheap enough but I don't know if I should care given the intended use. Not to mention, the engine is all sealed up and I'd prefer not to tear back into it, unless not doing so is certain disaster.


Do not put the upper intake or exhaust manifolds on until After the engine is in the truck.
The wiring harness should be self explanatory with the engine in too. There aren't alot of connections and they'll only hook up one way.
The wiring harness should be self explanatory with the engine in too. There aren't alot of connections and they'll only hook up one way.
Plug in the CPS and install the starter Before you put the exhaust manifolds on, as you'll have much more room to work.
You'll also have a harder time installing motor mounts if you put the exhaust manifolds on before installing the engine.
And, put the SAI tube in place Before installing the upper intake manifold.
You'll also have a harder time installing motor mounts if you put the exhaust manifolds on before installing the engine.
And, put the SAI tube in place Before installing the upper intake manifold.
I wouldn't be concerned about the lifters either.
Yes, they wear against the individual cam lobes, but with high miles, just run them.
If the engine ticks, it's most likely you need rod, main, and cam bearings. Which would mean new cam and lifters too, and assuming the valves, valve seats and springs are in spec.
Yes, they wear against the individual cam lobes, but with high miles, just run them.
If the engine ticks, it's most likely you need rod, main, and cam bearings. Which would mean new cam and lifters too, and assuming the valves, valve seats and springs are in spec.
Good call on the starter. I also have the crank sensor in now but should prob pull that out so it doesn't get damaged when fitting the engine. I'll make sure and do everything below the manifolds before putting them on. They were actually tempting to do now since they seem like an easy one to get behind me. That would have been a major mistake and exactly the kind of advice I'm looking for, thank you. I've done more complex jobs that this on other cars but this is my first Land Rover, and V8 as well for that matter, so even the obvious things aren't jumping out at me. Having the truck on a 4 post lift helps but I hate making things more complicated out of ignorance.
That was my feeling on the lifters as I gulped and dropped them into what I believed might be their correct homes, or not. They actually did not show abnormal wear when I had them out. Despite the higher miles, the engine was always well looked after and never abused by the original owner, and that's how I drive it as well. I'm sure the cam train will wear faster now that some are moved around but given my expectations of this engine I figured it was worth the risk. Had I known Lucky 8 would sell me a cam and lifters for <$200 at the time I probably would have just replaced everything when it was open, but that ship has sailed. I installed a VDO oil pressure sender and plan to mount an OP gauge to keep an eye on overall engine health that way.
That was my feeling on the lifters as I gulped and dropped them into what I believed might be their correct homes, or not. They actually did not show abnormal wear when I had them out. Despite the higher miles, the engine was always well looked after and never abused by the original owner, and that's how I drive it as well. I'm sure the cam train will wear faster now that some are moved around but given my expectations of this engine I figured it was worth the risk. Had I known Lucky 8 would sell me a cam and lifters for <$200 at the time I probably would have just replaced everything when it was open, but that ship has sailed. I installed a VDO oil pressure sender and plan to mount an OP gauge to keep an eye on overall engine health that way.
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