Hello, my name is Alexander and i am looking to remove and rebuild my engine. I have never removed an rover engine before nor really worked on one.

I bought this just as a hobby to go trailing and camping in. The person that had it before me never changed the oil or cleaned the mud off any thing.

Specs.

1996 Discovery I DE
4.0L Engine
Automatic

The head gasket is leaking along with the oil pan. However it still runs. I would like to clean and replace any seals and worn out parts along the way. I will also upgrade a few things aswell.

I will greatly appreciate any help, tips and advice in this project of mine.

Frist step is to remove the motor.

I am currently stuck on this.
I have removed every connected with it except the transmission, motor mounts and exhaust pipes. I am not sure how to get to the bolts or where they are holding it on to the engine.


I have the overhaul guide but have not found any thing to show how to remove the engine or proper method. I also have not found and videos, pictures or guides on this. Its vary strange. I have used every keyword and spent days looking up this.

Any advice I would be thankful for.

I did find some on the forum saying drop the engine off the mounts and let it hang down on a floor jack with some wood.

Im going to try that this week and see if i can remove the bolts to the Transmission.

 

On the bottom of the bell housing is a inspection plate, remove it, you will not see the fly wheel and torque converter, unbolt them.
This job sucks, you have to turn the engine over by hand to get each and every bolt to the inspection hole so you can get a spanner in there.
Once that is done you need to unbolt the bellhousing from the back of the engine.
Last thing will be the motor mounts.
But here is the thing, unless you are sending the block out to a shop to get cleaned and or rebuilt you can leave it in the truck.
You can leave the engine hooked up to the trans and rebuild it in the truck, you should not need to hone the cylinder walls.
If you are needing to remove the crank then you need to remove the engine, otherwise is you are only installing new rod bearings you can leave it in the engine.
These engines are bullet proof, at most new bearings, lifters, timing set, cam, etc. which can all be done while in the truck.

 

Head gaskets or valve cover gaskets are leaking.....?

Haynes has a manual with pictures.

 

I did exactly what you're setting out to do.

The RAVE has every instruction you need.

I suggest taking it to a machine shop and having them inspect, clean, re-ring, hone, replace bearings, resurface gasket surfaces, valve job. Take all your parts in for cleaning as well. I did all this for about 1200. Clean your engine bay thoroughly while the engine is out and inspect everything.

For maintenance I suggest new timing chain/gears, oil pump gears and/or front cover, double lip crank seal, cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers, rocker shafts, Champion plugs, plug wires.

Careful about buying Allmakes brand engine parts. They're commonly sold in online rover shops. Some are good quality, others are awful. Allmakes tappets, timing crank gears, crank shaft seals, and bearings seemed good quality to me. Allmakes cam, push rods, rockers, rocker shafts, cam timing gears, and motor mounts varied from ok-ish to awful.

For upgrades I suggest a crower cam, britishstarters.com starter, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds or headers, tom's cable set, Tornado systems ECU, Kingsbourne wires, ARP head studs. You can go crazy with roller rockers, moly rings, forged pistons, valve widening, porting, 4.6/5.0/5.2 conversion, etc. Keep in mind the drive train needs to be upgraded to handle additional power. It adds up fast $$$.

Be careful, don't break things, soak tough all/tough bolts with liquid wrench, prepare to make a complete mess, clean everything well.

 

they do make a (cheap) tool for that

assuming theres room to put it into the inspection cover, which id imagine there would be.

 

Thank you everyone for all your input, it is much appreciated. I definitely forgot about the torque converter bolts. I am taking on this task this entire weekend, so I'll keep you informed of my progress. The reason why I want to remove the engine is because one, it is filthy and I need to repair and clean many things as I can on the engine and within the engine bay. I like to work comfortably since I am missing my left arm on the lower part. I've always worked on engines this way when it came to major mechanical parts.

I definitely will do a lot of research when choosing my upgrade stresses head gasket and studs. I want to do as many upgrades or improvements as I can but keeping somewhat of a budget in mind. This is my first Land Rover and I'm not sure where I want to go with it just yet.

I work at the shipyards so we have a parts cleaner in the mechanical Bay. I may have to use it a couple times. Also notice that there was some firewall damage so I need to check that out as well. I have been taking plenty of pictures so once I throw together my timeline from start to finish, all post them up here.

Thanks Eric for all your input, that's a very good list you put together. I plan on examining the engine once it's out in looking at any and all parts you spoke about and compiling a list of prices. I'll make my decision based on what really needs to be repaired and what I would like to improve upon if I have the means to do so. $$ lol

I noticed you mentioned that the engine is bulletproof Spike, I did not mention the fact I drove around the Land Rover a couple dozen miles with a missing rod from cylinder to and it also has a broken lifter somewhere down in the head. sounded like a diesel engine before I stoped and put it in the garage. I wasn't worried about it since I knew it was going to rebuild it. And plus I only bought the Land Rover for $500.

Thanks again everyone wish me luck this weekend I'll let you know how everything goes. I will look up any thing rave has on the Land Rover in the meantime.

 

Ummmm.... be careful in the inspection cover lest you disturb any of the reluctor tabs. Break or bend one and the crank shaft position sensor won't like it, ....

Keep up with all tools, don't leave any for the next guy.

Wood block makes getting crank pulley off a little easier.

 

How many bolts are there in the flywheel to torque converter and also the bell housing/transmission? Are any of the bolts difficult to get to? I did see a cheap engine lift at harbor freight but I don't know if it would work without removing the front bumper.

 

Where are you located?