Can't recall seeing someone post about having done it twice. Main items for your ride will be to check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge (cracked oil pump will turn out the light, but not make full pressure), water pump some day soon, fan clutch, and you need to have greasable front prop shaft, stock ones split and poke hole in transmission. This last one is real important. Write up in tech section with pix.

Pix attached of some of the other things. Ulra Gauge helps keep eagle eye and programmed alarm on the coolant temp.

 

[QUOTE=Jared9220;294373

How often do these crank sensors fail? Should I be good for awhile?[/QUOTE]

I would replace it every 60,000 miles or so, they tend to fail anytime after that.
if you got 100k out of your current one you are lucky.
Personally, I would include it in the 60k tune up schedule.

 

Well, oil pan gasket only makes the front cover easier (pan has to come off for oil pump and timing chain).

You may want to shop for prices. Water pumps are not all $160. Usually the water pump announces itself by leaking coolant and wobbling the pulley. So if you remove yours, and it looks good on the inside, maybe just a gasket right now.

Fan clutch - there is a $50 Chevy unit that is a good cross, listed in D1 tech section.

Timing chain - someone posted about a Chevy / GM cross for that being under $50, but if it does not have a lot of slack it should last a long time. Slack usually shows up as timing wandering.

Oil pump - while it can crack, that does not mean it is cracked. A pressure test with manual gauge will tell. ANd also give you some idea of crankshaft bearings (if worn, oil PSI will be low, can be replaced without removing engine, write ups on that have been posted). You might want to add an oil PSI gauge.

Long story short - don't throw parts at it. Rebuilt prop shaft and save for head gaskets would be up there. Oil pressure test. Keep eye on coolant temp.

 

Jared9220 I had the same exact issue and fixed it. I driving down the road and same thing happened. Now when this happened to me, luckly enough I had just enough time to coast off the interstate and into a parking lot a few feet off the exit.

I noticed when this happened my speed odometer would not work and the engine seemed to sound very very odd. I thought my engine had blowen. And next the engine died off and I called my fiance to come pick me up. We tried to turn it over but got the same warning lights you are getting. So we left it their over night and planned to pick it up the next day with a tow truck. The next morning we went to look at the Rover and I tried turning it over and it started right up but of course the lights were still on and sounded a little weak. I wasnt far from home so I decided to drive it the rest of the way home and she made it. Next I had a friend from Autozone come over and run a test and it pulled up an error code for 3 things and they were,,,

1) ACTUATOR IDLE SPEED
2) Mass Air Flow Sensor
3) O2 Sensor
4) Transmission Sensor (1 of several) I guess, lol

I cleaned out the ACTUATOR IDLE SPEED and Mass Air Flow Sensor. I was told not to waste my time and clean these but to buy new ones but some people said they could be cleaned. And I cleaned them and they ended up working, no problem. It seemed to fix the issue and plus letting it sit over night helped. I say when you started it up again and tried driving her did not help the issue. I never ever try driving a vehicle after something like that happens unless its a day later. *Dont kill it more. lol.

Now later on I did replace the O2 Sensor and Transmission Sensor as well.

So next time, wait over night to try starting her again (if it ever happens again).

*I dont have my Rover anymore so thats why it took me awhile to reply, I was just checking things out on here and thought poor b**tard. lol, just kidding.

I will say while on the interstate and this happening had to be the most frightening thing, lol. Even on the highway going 60 mph would too.