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Old 12-16-2013, 02:12 PM
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Default Engine odities

Hey Guys,

So a while ago I posted about my engine and the oil pump and possible spun main bearings. Well I decided to just replace the engine so as to save me the hassle of a re-build.

I got the engine put in some time ago. (month or two) I'm not sure if it came from and 03 or 04. But this is the VIN: SALTW19474A865709.
That being said everything was smooth up until recently. When I drive at about 50km/h | 30mp/h I feel like the engine is bogging a bit and lacking power. Uphill you feel it quite a bit, it really bogs down unless you step on it and give it some gas.

The service engine soon light was on for a two day period and when scanned the only code that I had come up was the EVAP. Cleared that and carried on but then it came back on two days later.

I'm not sure exactly what the issue is, the truck is going to the mechanics tomorrow to be looked at. However I did want to ask your folks opinion about the lag/sluggish power. Could injectors be dirty/gunked up?
I know the fuel nowadays contains more Ethanol then years prior, but what could the cause be? Could the tranny and the engine not be fastened together properly at install? I really don't know, hence why I ask you fine folks... Any Idea?
 
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Old 12-16-2013, 05:48 PM
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Check for a vacuum leak, start it up and listen for a sucking sound. Since the work is recent look for anything unplugged or loose. Not being there it's difficult to say. The evap code was all you had?
 
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Old 12-16-2013, 06:35 PM
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Vacuum leak. Probably a good one. Check the fittings on the purge valve and look at the hard plastic lines for cracks.
 
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mbruneaux
Check for a vacuum leak, start it up and listen for a sucking sound. Since the work is recent look for anything unplugged or loose. Not being there it's difficult to say. The evap code was all you had?
Yes all I had was the evap code. I'm going to tell the mechanic to take a peek into the vac system.
 
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:25 AM
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The transmission will put the Rover into the highest gears possible at 40 mph or so and lock the torque convertor. If you are bogging up a hill at 40 that's OK.
You should ascend the hill at 55 if it is allowed and the road is smooth.

I had an evap code come about a month ago.
I cleared it and put the gas cap back on again and that's it.
No more codes.
 
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Old 12-17-2013, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jfall
The transmission will put the Rover into the highest gears possible at 40 mph or so and lock the torque convertor. If you are bogging up a hill at 40 that's OK.
You should ascend the hill at 55 if it is allowed and the road is smooth.

I had an evap code come about a month ago.
I cleared it and put the gas cap back on again and that's it.
No more codes.

I just got the word back from the mechanic. There are a couple of things they are going to be doing but I guess he wants to replace the Purge Solenoid as it is related to the EVAP code thats been coming up.

Any thoughts on this? I take it that all it would be is this little part here.

VALVE ASSY FUEL PURGE - DISCOVERY II, PLN901, WTV000060 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
 
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:03 PM
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If you are going to replace the purge valve, get a Hyundai valve. Its cheaper.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...40-code-37307/
 
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Old 01-03-2014, 08:34 AM
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Just to update you guys I had the shop do a few things:

- Smoke tested the Vac system (no leaks)
- Installed a new Purge Valve
- Changed the Valve Cover Gaskets
- Changed the Oil Pan Gasket
- Threw in Fresh Oil & Filter

I believe that is all. Truck runs better now as well.

Now the funny thing; I bring it to the mechanic and I get it back, however now the f-in tension pulley ( I THINK ) is squealing like its on its last stretch. The thing that gets me is bringing the car in to do this and that. Only to get it back with a terrible squeal! I have not mentioned it yet to the mechanic, but cmon, its in the shop already, why didnt you just call me to tell me that its loud and I should just out a new one in...

That being said, Can anyone tell me which Pulley is typically the most common one to fail. From inspecting it it sounds like its right at the top. Top right, I think its either (A) Drive Pulley or (B) Compressor Assembly Pulley. My guess is the bearing is just worn our but I can't pin point exactly which it is. Any ideas guys? Which is notorious for failure?

I'm also 100% sure I do not have the A.C.E. and the pulley to the pump for the air lift I was told was taken out. - This is what I've been told before.
Sounds like my belt is loose but I checked that and its fine.
 
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Old 01-03-2014, 08:49 AM
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the idler pulleys are 70 mm & 80 mm " i believe" and i think they can be sourced locally. I few people have had to change them in the last year or less I'm sure i will jump in and give the exact information
 
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