the water routes only, correct. its all about the surface prep. Before I do anything with a gasket I'm making sure my mating faces are clean and smooth then wiped with rubbing alcohol to remove any contaminants; after that the gasket is free to do its job. torque spec is the next big thing so I'm prepping all of my taps and bores too. chase your threads, blow them out with compressed air. brush your bolts off, run the threads, lube threads with anti-sieze or a little grease, then off you go. It takes time but any job is worth doing the right way, most of the time. On the upside everything goes together easier and should hold longer.

 

I think we're on the same page. Before we install any gaskets we clean all surfaces with lacquer thinner. We also soak bolts in lacquer, then wire brush them, and lastly apply Loctite or Anti-seize before torquing. If any threads get buggered up we'll chase them with a die or use a thread file. Given this bolts had RTV on them we'll also be cleaning the holes out too.

 

oh hell, you know what you're doing. if anything the injectors will get your engine straight and the extra info in this thread will help someone else. good luck bub.

 

I do have one question about the injectors. I'm pretty sure the TD5 injectors are coded for certain cylinders. Are the V8's the same way? I looked at my injectors, but didn't see anything different from one to the next. Figure I'll check just to be on the safe side.

 

no the v8 injectors aren't coded. As long as you install them properly n get everything hooked up right you will be fine.

 

Another though. Could the ECU somehow be keeping the injectors open, and in turn cause them to flood? If so how would I test for something like that?

Just trying to make sure I have everything covered before I try to start it up again.

 

if you have a Hawkeye or lynx, I believe you can actually monitor then and turn them on and off. Don't quote me on that though.

 

I don't have either of those, and don't think I'd get the OK to buy one either.

I don't see how or why the injectors would potentially be receiving a bad signal from the ECU since there were no prior issues. It's clear that all cylinders are receiving fuel, but the real question is how much. Given the visual sight of gas in the cylinders, and the decreased amount from cylinder to cylinder. I'm still leaning towards a faulty injector that would have eventually filled all cylinders on the one side.

We'll know for sure this Sunday. I just hope I don't have to pull the top end off again, and that's what's I'm trying to head off.

 

I'm getting my list of items to check together. Is there anything else that I should be checking besides what's been talked about so far?

*I'm replacing the fuel rail, and injectors. This will rule out my suspicions about a faulty injector.
*Making sure to line up valley gasket correctly.
*Change remaining old hoses with new ones.
*Checking for spark at the wire/plug with a plug test.

Would it be possible the camshaft sensor could be acting up, or the crankshaft sensor? I also read something saying that anytime the CPS is remove that you need to reset the adaptive values using the TestBook. I also think that's what Atlantic British says on their site.

 

Just a little update. My father in law was able to test the old injectors today, and found injectors 8 6 3 to be stuck open. Those were the cylinders that flooded out, and had no spark. It looks like that is the root of our problems.

We're heading out to the shop tomorrow to get everything put back together. We're also taking of work Monday in hopes of bringing her home.

Once we have the Rover back at the really fun starts. I have so much work to get done, and I have a little under 2 months to get it all done.