Hello I am new to the forum. I am having to do an engine swap this weekend in my 2000 Landrover Disco 2. I threw a rod on a motor that had 130,000. Blew an oil line then had a knock after the repair. I have found a Low millege roll over of a land rover of the same year. Only difference is mine has rear air. The donor doesn't. I believe that the compressor is the only differences. Could anybody tell me any helpful tips on doing the swap. Any hang ups? Or thing I need to be aware of that may save time. Any advice is appreciated. The new motor has 20,000 miles on it. Been inside with all holes taped up.

 

there is no difference with the engine or compressor if it has rear air or not, only the charge is different.

That is if you are not confussing rear air with secondary air, they are two different things.
if the motor has secondary air you will have to use your heads.

 

Download the free RAVE shop manual set so you will have everything at your fingertips.

Do an oil PSI mechnaical gauge check on donor engine once installed.

Use your old ECU, it is synced to your Body control unit as well. Depress hood alarm switch when hooking battery back up, don't want alarm to think you are stealing it. Flush any dexcool from cooling system and go back 50/50 premix - green, but no Dexcool.

Re: AC compressor - just thought there was more refrigerant charge for the rear air unit, same compressor? Save your old compressor, it may lay to the side enough to take things out, if not budget a new drier as well if hoses have to come off.

I would keep alternator and AC compressor if you have spares. And other fun things like MAF sensor, coil packs, sensors.

Once you get it running, I would upgrade to the new soft spring 180F thermostat.


Now what to do with that old engine - got man cave?

 

Couple things that I have learned the hardway that will help you out in the removals and replacements.

After you unbolt the torque converter to flywheel either using the access ports in on back of the block or dropping the oil pan as I prefer to get the 4 torque converter to Flex plate bolts out you'll then need to remove the 10 bolts holding the transmission housing to the motor.

You should be able to remove 6 of these bolt from underneath the Truck. Then remove the (2) 18MM Nuts that hold the motor mounts to the frame and to the block mounts. Now get your hoist and lift the engine to remove the motor mounts which will allow you to lower the engine down to get the (4) bolts on the back of the block. Now drop the engine down as low as you can got to get the remaining (4) bolts out from standing in the engine bay and using a 1/2 wrench to get these out. You will need to support the Transmission with a stand prior to splitting the trans to engine.


Good Luck

 

Hey Guys thanks for the info. I am not sure on the secondary air. But hopefully they will be the same. How long should I alot for the swap. I have an 11,000lb asymetrical lift. and air tools.

 

if you have lift and compressor you should be able to r&r it in a day without any issue

 

The old motor in the Land rover now does have secondary air. If the new motor doesn't and we still put it in what are the problems that I will run into or is there any special thing I need to do?

 

If you have emmissions in your state this can be a problem. You could always swap heads from the old to the donor engine (that's if they were good).
I don't believe you'll have any operational problems other than maybe a dash light. The SAI is only operational upon start or when the engine is cold and the OAT is below a specified degree. You'll need to cap off the vac line coming from the intake and disconnect the electrical input to the SAI pump if you will eliminate.

 

Depending on the state they might also run a scan to check for engine codes. I know in PA my truck failed inspection due to the SAI pump throwing codes.

 

you will need to used your old heads or at least a set of heads with SAI