Engine swap need help
#21
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Ohhhh ok thanks, lol well alrighty this has been very helpful when I get around to the project in a couple months, I will certainly look to do all this stuff to keep my high mileage engine running as good as possible, any chance some of this would stop loud ticking or would I need a different new part of the engine?
Once they pass 100k or so miles, anything in there can make noise. Some never do.
I think in most cases, the loud tick after warm up is usually bearings.
#22
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If you have loud ticking, it could be...an exhaust leak, the oil pump, lifters, rocker shafts, worn cam, cam bearings, rod or main bearings, even a slipped cylinder liner is possible.
Once they pass 100k or so miles, anything in there can make noise. Some never do.
I think in most cases, the loud tick after warm up is usually bearings.
Once they pass 100k or so miles, anything in there can make noise. Some never do.
I think in most cases, the loud tick after warm up is usually bearings.
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landroverdude (01-30-2020)
#24
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Might as well do crank and rod bearings too, they are under $75, the oil pan will be off, and he should only charge another hour or so of labor.
The timing cover would come off for a gasket, so a $30 oil pump would be smart as well.
And reman injectors are $60 and will be no problem to swap as the intake will be off anyway.
The timing cover would come off for a gasket, so a $30 oil pump would be smart as well.
And reman injectors are $60 and will be no problem to swap as the intake will be off anyway.
#25
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Sometimes this site embellishes how easy or how much a shop should only charge.
From experience sometimes the stuff that’s said here about oh this should only cost this much for the shop to do is totally ridiculous
shops are not gonna bust their *** for cheap
if he got quoted 3500 for gaskets and now he reads this and wants oil pump bearings chain whatever. What is the shop gonna say now ???
Bro if you love your truck get a used p38 engine in running condition or get a crate engine from Atlantic British or something and get at least one year warranty
From experience sometimes the stuff that’s said here about oh this should only cost this much for the shop to do is totally ridiculous
shops are not gonna bust their *** for cheap
if he got quoted 3500 for gaskets and now he reads this and wants oil pump bearings chain whatever. What is the shop gonna say now ???
Bro if you love your truck get a used p38 engine in running condition or get a crate engine from Atlantic British or something and get at least one year warranty
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landroverdude (01-31-2020)
#26
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It says, what they "Should" charge.
Oil pan off, those parts are right there.
Been there, done that...it's an hour with the pan already off. I'm letting him know, so not to get taken for a ride.
I'm not telling anyone what a shop is going to charge them either.
I already said a $4k gasket change was ridiculous.
I'm sure their 1 hour rate is steep too.
I gave the OP accurate part prices, so he can get them himself, or not overpay for them. He also now has an idea of how expensive all of this can get.
I get what you're saying...but don't insinute I'm misleading anyone...
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Sixpack577 (01-31-2020)
#28
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$6500 is alot of money, but all things considered, that 5.0 looks like a deal.
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CollieRover (01-31-2020)
#29
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Using a P38 4.0L could also be a good choice. Bear in mind the 4.0L will likely be set up for GEMS so you will need to change the crank position sensor mount. There is negligible horsepower difference between the 4.6 and the 4.0. If you go with a P38 4.0L you can use a 4.6L camshaft for better performance.
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Sixpack577 (01-31-2020)
#30
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Using a P38 4.0L could also be a good choice. Bear in mind the 4.0L will likely be set up for GEMS so you will need to change the crank position sensor mount. There is negligible horsepower difference between the 4.6 and the 4.0. If you go with a P38 4.0L you can use a 4.6L camshaft for better performance.
From what I read the 4.0 has 180hp/280trq, and the 4.6 has 217hp/300trq.
I know those 4.6 numbers are correct, but am unsure of the 4.0's
I have driven both, and my 4.6 definately feels like it had 30+ hp over the 4.0, the feel of more low rpm torque was very noticeable too.
Which is why when I got a 4.0 block to rebuild, I put my 4.6 crank and rods in it. If it had have been 5hp, meh, I'de have slapped heads in the 4.0 and dropped it in.
But, the difference in the 2 to me was dramatic.
I also am port matching heads, intake, and exhaust, and have a Crower cam, so I'm expecting to notice an improvement in the 4.6