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Engine temperatures

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  #11  
Old 07-23-2012 | 09:59 PM
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So I bought the land rover knowing i was going to have to work on it so I am not really sweating spending some money but at the same time I do not want to simply throw parts at it. When I was an aircraft mechanic in the Air Force we threw parts at undiagnosed problems but thats not ur money. lol. So I do not want to put a new radiator in it unless I have to. Dexcool I know for a fact has not been in it for the last three years, not sure about the owner before that. So think it would be a good first move to just swap out the tstat with the motorad 180?
 
  #12  
Old 07-23-2012 | 10:26 PM
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What about running radiator cleaner through it?
 
  #13  
Old 07-24-2012 | 05:59 AM
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The D2 radiators are plastic tankers, so re-working them is not cost effective ($200 radiator). As for getting out sludge, may have some relief, but generally once conditions get to where parts of rad are clogged, you may have waited too long to start a practice of flushing. Some people for years have done a cooling system service by draining, refill with water and distilled white vinegar, operate, then next day drain, flush, and replace coolant. The mild acid eats away some of the calcium.

Pix attached. But I will also attach a GM TSB on flushing Dexcool. Just don't re-fill with it.
 
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  #14  
Old 07-24-2012 | 07:11 AM
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From: Boston Strong
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I would suggest running the freeland t-stat that open at 180 also, but that is just going to cause water flow earlier which does not look to be your problem.
You have a problem with the top end tempertures, if your cond. fan and clutch fan are working properly, you will most likely need to replace the radiator. jmho
 
  #15  
Old 07-24-2012 | 08:55 AM
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So you now know you are too hot. Here are things you need to rule out, t/stat replace it with a new soft spring t/stat, the radiator at your mileage is partially plugged up and can not be cleaned to improve flow, make sure your electric fan is working and test your viscus clutch to make sure it is still working properly and here again, if it is original, it is warn out, then add a bottle of Water Wetter to your new "GREEN" coolant.
Your temps this time a year should be 206 while driving in town, 210 after 10 minute idle and 195 at highway speeds.
 
  #16  
Old 07-24-2012 | 10:35 AM
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Yep, half a radiator (half full of non-moving sludge) will not cool well at slow speeds. But I think DM's temps are with stock stat and new radiator, some users of the soft spring have reported a little lower.
 
  #17  
Old 07-24-2012 | 10:58 AM
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Yeah temps are good with lots of airflow so I am looking at replacing the fan or clutch looks like. Thanks for the help.
 
  #18  
Old 07-24-2012 | 11:07 AM
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neither the clutch non condenser fan are used at high speed because you have plenty of air flow, they are not your problem.
if you were running hot at low speed i would look at the fans, but that does not appear to be your problem.
Unless I read your post wrong
 
  #19  
Old 07-24-2012 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by bigcraigman
I have been reading a while on these forums looking for go/no go temps and just wanted to get a hard and fast answer from the pros. I live in pensacola so it is hot and humid so I sometimes hit 225-230 after running it 55-60 then returning to idle. On the highway 45-60 mph I stay low 190's even in the heat. But after I slow it jumps to 220-230ish. I have only seen 230 twice. I have done radiator flush with new coolant and I am running 50/50 mix. Should I go ahead and put water wetter in?
He was only running hot at low speeds.
 
  #20  
Old 07-24-2012 | 11:12 AM
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Unless I read your post wrong
 


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