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Engine torn down for head gasket, now what?

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Old 11-11-2009, 06:53 PM
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Default Engine torn down for head gasket, now what?

So the heads are at the shop getting pressure tested and skimmed... It seems like I could be cleaning the inside of this thing for days... what should I concentrate on? I've replace all the seals and gaskets that came in the AB gasket kit. Even replaced the leaky pan gasket. Since its broke down this far, what else should I do while I'm here? Thanks for your insight...
 
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Old 11-11-2009, 07:00 PM
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Arrow If were in the same boat, might as well meet up for a drink?

I am going to be in the same boat as you are so this should be a great thread as I will have my heads off tomorrow.. There is a service manual for download but I forget what site it was on. I'll be watching this thread.

I will say that if you've got the intake and all that good stuff off I would degrease all of it very thoroughly as well as changing your spark plugs wires if you still have the old gray 7mm wires.

What year/model do you have?
 
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Old 11-11-2009, 07:09 PM
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If you haven't already, download and skim through this for some possible ideas you may not have thought of..


To download the RAVE manual, follow this link http://www.landroverresource.com/
 
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Old 11-11-2009, 10:37 PM
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'03 DII - 75,000 miles... Degreased everything... 6 cans of degreaser actually... changed the plug wires too... I didn't want to go anywhere near the pistons for fear of gouging or getting something in there, but everything else is scrubbed...
 
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Old 11-11-2009, 10:58 PM
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If i may make a suggestion, if you are doing the job yourself, you should get some permatex anaerobic gasket maker, part # 51845 and a small roller.

You put some on the block deck and roll it, kind of like pain til its completely covered, do the same on the head and both sides of the gasket. It gives amazing protection and a superior seal. We use it on the 4.6 Northstar heads(caddy), which are known for running hot and blowing gaskets and it works like a charm, even if the car overheats, the gaskets are still cherry. When i couldn't find a upper plenum gasket for my DI (they kept sending me the wrong one) I used this alone and it worked great.

Its pretty expensive, like $100.00 for a 300ml tube, but i believe you can find smaller tubes online for like 20-30 bucks. well worth it imo..They have a blue and a red, the red is the one i use, its the highest strength..Amazon has a large tube for $60.00..

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-51845...d_ys_ir_all_32
 
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Old 11-11-2009, 11:12 PM
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It says specifically in the manual to fit this dry? Not that I trust rover common sense, but there must be a reason for this??
 
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Old 11-11-2009, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by audioclay
It says specifically in the manual to fit this dry? Not that I trust rover common sense, but there must be a reason for this??
I would trust modern technology over the manual. Machine shops these days rarely fit gaskets dry, more and more of them are starting to use copper sprays and these type of silicons for a better seal. It's not really a must though, just a suggestion..
 
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Old 11-12-2009, 09:17 AM
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If you feel you must coat the gasket, another alternative is a spray copper coat....permatex #80697, fairly inexpensive for a 9oz. spray can, also "hylomar" is another good product for sealing the plenum.

now would be a good time to replace the serp belt and check the connections on your starter, as it's not very easy to do when all's back together, I mention this because the wires were just barely hanging on on mine when I went through this. The radiator hoses
might deserve a good look also. Make sure that you or whoever is doing the heads , THROUGHLY cleans the rocker shafts and rockers . Good luck
 
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