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Erratic temp readings after inline thermostat mod

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  #21  
Old 01-01-2021, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnHZ3
I'm not familiar with with the vacuum fill method. Would you mind walking me through it?
Sure, you need a compressor and a vacuum fill kit, mine is from a company called AirLift, and it's available on Amazon. You use the vacuum kit to put a 25" vacuum on your entire cooling system, completely removing almost all air. Then, you switch a valve and allow the coolant (sucked thru a hose) to re-populate the cooling system without introducing any air. This method is the only way to fill certain modern engine's such as my 2.0 litre ford fusion according to the factory service manual, so I figured that it would be worth a try on the Disco. There are also several good vacuum fill tutorials on youtube. Worked perfectly for me.

Rhys L.
 
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  #22  
Old 01-01-2021, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Jackspratt2
1) The T-stat closes when the temperature drops.

2) The Inline doesn't close.
What nonsense is this? Of course the inline thermostat closes. That's what thermostats do.
 
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  #23  
Old 01-01-2021, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Jackspratt2
It stops the TB from freezing and could save someones life in extreme cold weather. Engineers put it there for a reason. It should never be removed. Cold air hits the intake. At some point if the cold air wins the temp drops. It's simple to understand and not worth risking someones life because you... and other members don't want to replace TBH's and hoses when they leak.

When you sell the car you don't know where it will go.

It''s crazy people here saying you never need a TBH because the engine is plenty warm. That's just obtuse.
I've deleted the TBH on every disco I've worked on. I've driven them in weather from 100*F to -20*F in various levels of humidity.

I have certainly experienced throttle freezing on vehicles before, but never on a Disco. The issue was with old carboureted vehicles. When the fuel enters the air charge (before the throttle blades) it cools off the air charge greatly, and in turn keeps the body of the carbouretor extremely cold allowing water in the air to condense and freeze to the throttle blades and bore.

On a fuel injected vehicle (excluding throttle body injection) the system is useless because the throttle body is not being cooled by the fuel coming thru. The heat from the motor is more than enough to keep the throttle from getting cold enough for this to happen.

It is perfectly safe to disconnect the throttle body heater. Heck, even if it freezes all you have to do it smack the throttle and it breaks free immediately, but it's not going to freeze.
 
  #24  
Old 01-01-2021, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Extinct
Just to confirm, you did the bleed procedure with the cap off and revving the engine after installation? I suppose it could be a sticking thermostat. I use Motorads so they are top quality, but if it does not settle down in a day or two I will send a replacement.
I have never heard of this procedure for the D2. What is this method?
 
  #25  
Old 01-01-2021, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by rhyslegge
Sure, you need a compressor and a vacuum fill kit, mine is from a company called AirLift, and it's available on Amazon. You use the vacuum kit to put a 25" vacuum on your entire cooling system, completely removing almost all air. Then, you switch a valve and allow the coolant (sucked thru a hose) to re-populate the cooling system without introducing any air. This method is the only way to fill certain modern engine's such as my 2.0 litre ford fusion according to the factory service manual, so I figured that it would be worth a try on the Disco. There are also several good vacuum fill tutorials on youtube. Worked perfectly for me.

Rhys L.
I have one as well it was amazing on the LR3 and Excursion
 
  #26  
Old 01-01-2021, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Jason_B
I have never heard of this procedure for the D2. What is this method?
The stock disco water pump does not move enough water to push the air out of the heater core at idle. I have confirmed this by removing the heater hose return hose with the truck running, no water coming out. You have to buzz the engine up to about 2000 rpm before it will flow enough to max out through the radiator and start flowing through the heater core. So when bleeding, remove the bottle cap and buzz the engine up to 2000 to push the air out through the heater core.
 
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