Those 16 exhaust manifold - to - engine block bolts with the spacer...


Where would I find the information regarding the size and type of this bolt? Or if someone reading this knows what it is, please inform me. The threading... trying to get a chaser for that today.


EDIT: 3/8 - 16.
but if somebody can help me with the parts that I need to replace, let's work something out ASAP. I know you need cash, so do I.. don't we ALL. But if we can do a trade you will be doing a fellow enthusiast a real solid, and good things should come back 'round.


In need of the HT wire lead for cylinder #1. factory or OEM 7mm, black in good condition.
In need of the expansion header tank of cooling system. good condition. Prefer to trade. I have a really nice 4.0 airbox lid and a brand new, still in the package A-Pillar finisher for the driver side. I even have the 2-different sets of brand new fasteners for replacement. 3 of the plastic barrel & pin rivet then 3 metal clips. Both parts are D-2, of course.

 

Seems odd that it would be a non-metric thread. I know there are some places on the D2 where there are metric bolts that don't have the correct size head for the diameter of the shank, but I'm pretty sure all the threads I've come across in/around the engine have been metric. (Not that I've checked them all, though.)

 

Think about it...
This is an American engine. The threads originally tapped by GM remained the same. The Brits just put metric heads on standard threaded fasteners. Most, if not every single thread tapped into the block will be standard. All of the auxiliary like pulley brackets, radiator brackets, body mountings will be metric on metric as everything but the engine was produced in the UK or Europe, proper.

To add, everybody knows the cylinder head tappings in the block are 7/16. Now why would that be standard and every other tapping like say... Exhaust manifold, sump, intake manifold be metric thread?

 

The factory exhaust manifold bolts have the silly 12-point heads but are otherwise nothing special. They're indeed 3/8 x 16 threads. Just go to The Home Depot or Lowe's or your local Ace Hardware or anywhere else and buy what you need for a few cents each. No need for mail order or anything else. But when you install them use anti-seize.

 

Not silly to those who had more complete tool boxes prior to seeing one. Those silly 12pt nuts/bolts are all over all the turbine airliner engines my eyes have seen.
......

 

The problem with "everybody knows" is that NOT everybody knows. As I said, I have not checked the threads. I assumed that the engine threads had been tapped into the block by the British manufacturers, not during the casting process.
All I was trying to do was recommend some caution in case the threads turned out to not be the pitch you thought they were.

 

Is it possible to fit 3/8 studs in the cylinder head? Aluminium cylinder heads with threads in them will strip out sooner or later whereas studs would last longer and cause less stress on the threads. With the constant expansion and contraction the bolts may destroy the alu head threads. IMO studs would be better and just retain a couple of bolts for location purposes.

 

Ya, I like that idea.

 

The problem with using studs on the heads for attaching the exhaust manifolds is I believe they would create a clearance issue when R/R the manifolds with the engine in the truck. At the very least they would make it more difficult to maneuver parts around.

 

I'll defo take your word for it as it's a long time since I owned my V8 D2 and even then it was under warranty so did no work on it. It was just an idea I was throwing out to Chubbs. My Pajero uses studs on the exhaust manifold and bolts on the intake manifold but a with a lot lower torque settings.