A good many years ago, I bought some OEM LR off road lights to put on my, at the time, recently acquired OEM brush guard. Being in the OEM mindset, I got the factory wiring kit. It was quite a PITA to install, but it worked, and was factory.

After a year or so, the off road lights began to work when they wanted to. It was totally hit and miss when they would come on or decide to turn off. Everything pointed to the factory "control unit" which was a mysterious relay type box that came with the wiring kit that had 10 different wires running to it. Shortly after the diagnosis, I removed the brush guard and entire bumper cover to gain approach angle.

Last week or so, I refitted the bumper, guard, and lights, and Saudi cut the bumper (since both fog lights were broken anyway). The lights were still hit and miss, and last night, the factory momentary switch decided to remain on and illuminated whether the low beams or high beams were on. Regardless of headlight beam selection, the off road lights remained off, while the switch read they should be on.

I used the how-to at https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rov...iagram.203300/ to remove the factory "control box" and rewire the lights using a simple 5 pin relay (only 4 wires going to it). Replaced the momentary switch with a cruise control on-off switch, and swapped the switch covers.

Off road lights now work like they should: with high beam headlights on, push the switch and the lights work. Switch back to low beams, and they go off. What's better than the factory setup (other than working like it should) is that I can tell whether the lights on my guard are going to come on when I flip to high beams based on switch position..if the switch is depressed, they will light. The only well to tell with the factory switch was to wait to flip to highs, and see if the LED lit up on the switch, then make adjustments as necessary.

Who would have thought that factory LR wiring could be improved on by something a lot more basic?