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Fan removal

Old Mar 10, 2016 | 12:17 PM
  #11  
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You can replace the pump without removing the fan. You just have to unthread the long lower p-pump mounting bolt along with the pump and pull them out together.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2016 | 02:02 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Motorhead1
You can replace the pump without removing the fan. You just have to unthread the long lower p-pump mounting bolt along with the pump and pull them out together.
That may be an option. I really wanted the room. I just can't get this fan off. Thought on an air hammer method?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2016 | 02:23 PM
  #13  
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The pulley is just spinning. Tried rags, couldn't figure that out.
Normally just some down pressure on the serpentine belt is enough. If not a rag stuffed between belt and one of the pulleys should stop pulley from turning. Penetrating oil on clutch nut threads. Whacking wrench with hammer and air hammer both act as impact to free rusty threads. Somehow cross threaded or severely over torqued damaging threads?
......
 
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Old Mar 10, 2016 | 06:41 PM
  #14  
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I've never had any serious issues on removing a mechanical fan clutch from a Jeep, Hummer, or LR. The true key is striking the 36mm fan clutch tool in such a way that 99% of the pressure is directed basically down.

It's kind of like on Japanese vehicles if you tried to use a #2 Phillips head screw driver on their soft bolts/screws the head would simply strip out on the first good turn leaving you with a stripped headed bolt/screw. I found the secret to successfully removing them without stripping the head was taking the #2 Phillips head screw driver and placing it on the bolt/screw and hitting it with a hammer. The downward blows would break the bolt threads loose, and then when you used the screw driver the bolt/screws would break free with no problem. Same theory with the fan clutch removal.

Only on one stubborn 05 Jeep Wrangler fan clutch did I have to resort to a 12/13mm box end wrench on one of the water pump bolts. Then while a friend held down on the box end wrench I hit the 36MM fan clutch tool with a slow blow hammer and it spun free on the first hit.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2016 | 07:04 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
It's kind of like on Japanese vehicles if you tried to use a #2 Phillips head screw driver on their soft bolts/screws the head would simply strip out on the first good turn leaving you with a stripped headed bolt/screw.
That's because those aren't Phillips screws but JIS screws -- Japanese Industrial Standard. They're specifically designed to strip if you use Phillips tools under high torque.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2016 | 07:20 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by mollusc
That's because those aren't Phillips screws but JIS screws -- Japanese Industrial Standard. They're specifically designed to strip if you use Phillips tools under high torque.
Well I guess my hand was extremely tough on em (all that torque being a single and a raging teenager lol).

I loved it when Discount Tire would rip off 15 of the 24 lug nut studs on my Mitsubishi Montero due to using an impact. I got lots of new studs, lug nuts, and discounts to say the least.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2016 | 10:05 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jfall

Now whack the hammer from left to right into the crecent wrench handle
Correct me if I'm wrong, but did you mean to say right to left? As in lefty loosy? Facing the front of the engine.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 05:25 PM
  #18  
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Well, I did get it off. Power steering pump removed. Now just have to figure out how to replace the hoses. The one connected to the pump was easy, not sure how to do the return hose yet, hopefully not too hard.

Once again, thanks!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 05:41 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
The key when hitting it is to hit it with a slow blow hammer or something that doesn't bounce, and to also basically hit it straight down vs to the side. I've had severely rusted fan clutch threads and eventually with a slow blow hammer, and hitting it a few good times eventually breaks it loose.

You can also place a socket onto one of the water pump bolts and have someone else apply downward pressure to it while you wack the 36MM Fan Clutch tool with a slow blow hammer (normal hammer works, but I like how a slow blow doesn't bounce).

You mean dead blow?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 05:45 PM
  #20  
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For better or worse I put anti seize on my fan nut when I install it. It hasn't wound itself off yet (couple of years). Males it a breeze to remove.
 
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