Fender flares rhino-lined
#23
My roof has some dead clearcoat, so anything I did up there would only enhance it visually.
#24
If you look at my pics the Duplicolor-Bed Armor doesn't over-spray like normal spray paint. So covering the ENTIRE truck is overkill....
If you go as far as pulling the flares completely off, get rid of them all together. Get the glue off the truck and it will look stock (lots of people have gone this route and it looks great if you can get the glue off)
#25
X2 on the Dupli-color Bed Armor. This gives the same texture as the original fender flares. A couple points from my repair.
1) Taping / Sanding - Tape it off before you sand, so you do not scuff the paint as you sand close to the body. Just basic sanding to prep surface using 180 grit sandpaper. I worked on the rougher spots a little more, but not much. After a few coats the textured rubberized paint will fill it in anyway.
2) Shake Well and while painting - Because this is textured and rubberized, it is very important to shake very well before and ever minute during painting. Instructions say this, but do not rush to get started before you get the can good and mixed. I did mine one wheel arch at a time, so really the painting time for each coat was less than a minute.
3) Light Coats - Because this paint is textured and rubberized, it does not have much over-spray like regular spray paint that is much lighter which is nice, but it can come out in larger paint spots sometimes, so light coats are a must to keep it from running. If you do see a run developing, just let it dry for the 10 minutes per instructions between coats, and before the next coat run your finger over it to spread the paint and knock down the run area. Or on a few runs I just ran my finger over it just after painting to smooth it out. The next light coat or two will cover it right up. The instructions call for 3 to 4 light coats, I think I ended up with about 6 or so.
4) Clean Spray Nozzle Often - Due to the textured and rubberized paint, after each coat a bit of thick paint is left on the spray nozzle. Wipe off the nozzle after each coat or during coats if you are not getting a good even spray to keep the spray as clean and even as possible.
This is great stuff!
1) Taping / Sanding - Tape it off before you sand, so you do not scuff the paint as you sand close to the body. Just basic sanding to prep surface using 180 grit sandpaper. I worked on the rougher spots a little more, but not much. After a few coats the textured rubberized paint will fill it in anyway.
2) Shake Well and while painting - Because this is textured and rubberized, it is very important to shake very well before and ever minute during painting. Instructions say this, but do not rush to get started before you get the can good and mixed. I did mine one wheel arch at a time, so really the painting time for each coat was less than a minute.
3) Light Coats - Because this paint is textured and rubberized, it does not have much over-spray like regular spray paint that is much lighter which is nice, but it can come out in larger paint spots sometimes, so light coats are a must to keep it from running. If you do see a run developing, just let it dry for the 10 minutes per instructions between coats, and before the next coat run your finger over it to spread the paint and knock down the run area. Or on a few runs I just ran my finger over it just after painting to smooth it out. The next light coat or two will cover it right up. The instructions call for 3 to 4 light coats, I think I ended up with about 6 or so.
4) Clean Spray Nozzle Often - Due to the textured and rubberized paint, after each coat a bit of thick paint is left on the spray nozzle. Wipe off the nozzle after each coat or during coats if you are not getting a good even spray to keep the spray as clean and even as possible.
This is great stuff!
Last edited by Rover_Hokie; 03-16-2015 at 09:24 PM.
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