few questions with water pump replacement
#41
11-28-2016, 10:39 PM
Here is a pic; not very good at all but you see where it starts at the radiator on DS, goes by the Airbox and MAF sensor, over top of the engine under throttle cable and you see the tubing reappear at the overflow tank. Then replace the other plastic ones coming out of the intake manifold-to-throttle body and then back to the overflow tank again. You can't see it in this pic but there is just 1-piece of brand new tubing that goes from the upper intake directly to the overflow jug and deleting the section to throttle body entirely. I have a new throttle body rebuild and gasket kit so when I repair that I'm going to plug in a new piece of the same flexible tubing and utilize that factory option for as long as it maintains a leak-free connection and if it does down the road, I will just take the tube out and run it straight to the jug again.
Last edited by chubbs878; 11-28-2016 at 10:53 PM.
#42
11-30-2016, 05:27 PM
Iv done this multiple times now trying to bleed the system stone cold and just no luck. Pulled the drain plugs today one last time and the bottom radiator hose. Put everything back together and I was able to get about 2 gallons into the reservoir. Then raised it so the entire reservoir tank was above the bleed screw and i had water coming out the bleed screw. Closed everything up and went to start the car and i let the temps get to 125 but I had no heat coming out the vents so i shut the engine down. Any other secretes to this madness? other then wait for it to cool, burb the system add water then fire up the engine, and i almost always get heat after that.
When the reservoir is in its mount it sits below the level of the bleed screw in the plastic tee. It needs to be unclipped and lifted at least high enough so the coolant in the reservoir is higher than the tee so that coolant will flow and force the air out of the bleed screw fitting. Ideally it should be raised so that the bottom of the reservoir is above the level of the bleed screw fitting but if you don't have that much flex to work with just raise it as high as you can without straining any fitting too much.
Yes. Add coolant at the reservoir until it runs out the bleed screw for 20 seconds or so, then gently tighten the bleed screw and put the reservoir back in place.
I assume by this you mean you've not been able to bleed it successfully stone cold. I know a lot of people have trouble bleeding the cooling system but I've never had any problem simply following the instructions in the RAVE.
Again, there's no reason to remove the drain plugs from the block. If you flush 2-3 times until there is only clear water in the system all you then need to do is pull the lower radiator hose and drain whatever comes out, then fill with Prestone concentrate, not 50/50 premix (or whatever your favorite brand is).
Yes. Add coolant at the reservoir until it runs out the bleed screw for 20 seconds or so, then gently tighten the bleed screw and put the reservoir back in place.
I assume by this you mean you've not been able to bleed it successfully stone cold. I know a lot of people have trouble bleeding the cooling system but I've never had any problem simply following the instructions in the RAVE.
Again, there's no reason to remove the drain plugs from the block. If you flush 2-3 times until there is only clear water in the system all you then need to do is pull the lower radiator hose and drain whatever comes out, then fill with Prestone concentrate, not 50/50 premix (or whatever your favorite brand is).
Last edited by BS50MGSXR; 11-30-2016 at 05:32 PM.
#43
11-30-2016, 05:59 PM
Super Moderator
Have you driven it at all after all of this bleeding/burping? Waterfall sound from the heater core? Or just temps at idle spike past 195F so you shut it down?
125F and you shut it off? Thermostat doesn't open until 180/190F (depending on the thermostat used). I'd let her run at least up to 200F. If it goes past that then shut her down. It's cooler out now so I truly don't see it getting that hot unless you have a clogged radiator. All my D2's with 180F thermostats are in the 172-193F range right now (including the 850.00 04 D2 I just bought n sold with a #6 cylinder head gasket leak).
I even just removed the plastic bleed T on my 06 LR3 (well known part that fails) with a straight 3/8 straight nipple connector and I got the air out of that system by it cooling overnight.
125F and you shut it off? Thermostat doesn't open until 180/190F (depending on the thermostat used). I'd let her run at least up to 200F. If it goes past that then shut her down. It's cooler out now so I truly don't see it getting that hot unless you have a clogged radiator. All my D2's with 180F thermostats are in the 172-193F range right now (including the 850.00 04 D2 I just bought n sold with a #6 cylinder head gasket leak).
I even just removed the plastic bleed T on my 06 LR3 (well known part that fails) with a straight 3/8 straight nipple connector and I got the air out of that system by it cooling overnight.
#44
11-30-2016, 06:04 PM
ya, drove it last night to walmart. sat around 188 when moving and at idle and waiting a few minutes it stops at 203.
i just turn it off at 150 as iv done the 180 or 190 range and after i shut off, the engine starts warming up fast to like 208 and then it slowly drops back down.
it seems like the only air pocket now is the heater core. i would think the radiator and the block are mostly full along with the reservoir.
i just turn it off at 150 as iv done the 180 or 190 range and after i shut off, the engine starts warming up fast to like 208 and then it slowly drops back down.
it seems like the only air pocket now is the heater core. i would think the radiator and the block are mostly full along with the reservoir.
#45
12-04-2016, 06:53 AM
Iv done this multiple times now trying to bleed the system stone cold and just no luck. Pulled the drain plugs today one last time and the bottom radiator hose. Put everything back together and I was able to get about 2 gallons into the reservoir. Then raised it so the entire reservoir tank was above the bleed screw and i had water coming out the bleed screw. Closed everything up and went to start the car and i let the temps get to 125 but I had no heat coming out the vents so i shut the engine down. Any other secretes to this madness? other then wait for it to cool, burb the system add water then fire up the engine, and i almost always get heat after that.
I wonder if we are talking past each other, which sometimes happens. Just what do you mean when you say "just no luck"? You say you "let the temps get to 125." Why 125? I wouldn't expect heat at 125F.
For my truck I drained by pulling the lower radiator hose only. Didn't touch the block drain plugs. It took a little while for the draining to stop (~15 minutes). I got out a little over 1.5 gallons. After the draining stopped I removed the bleed screw, raised the reservoir and filled the system with distilled water. It took a little time and patience but once fluid began to flow from the bleed screw fitting I replaced the bleed screw, tightening it gently, finished filling the reservoir with distilled water and returned the reservoir to its mount. I then took the truck for a drive, getting it up to operating temp for seven miles (15 minutes). After the first mile and a half or so the heater began blowing warm air and there was no gurgling or waterfall sound.
I repeated this process two more times letting the system cool for an hour or so between cycles. After the third cycle I drained the system one last time by pulling the lower radiator hose. What drained out was almost completely clear. It doesn't matter if there was some small residue of the old coolant still present; it was well diluted.
After that drain I reconnected the lower radiator hose, raised the reservoir and filled the system with Prestone concentrate. I again replaced the bleed screw after coolant ran from it for 15-20 seconds, continued adding Prestone to the reservoir until it reached the fill line on the seam and then replaced the reservoir in its mount.
I next took the truck on a nine mile test loop drive that included stretches of 55 mph travel plus some 35 mph neighborhood traffic and a few stops. Cruising temp was the typical 188.6F, sometimes dipping briefly to 186.8F. Stoplight temp rose to 194 or 195.8F, again typical. (This truck has the gray, factory, 180F thermostat.)
After I got home I let the truck cool down overnight and checked the reservoir this morning. As expected the level in the reservoir was down so I topped it off with more concentrate, not touching the bleed screw. After topping it off I carefully measured how much of the two gallons of Prestone concentrated remained. I had just 16 oz., or one pint. That meant a total of 240 ounces (15 pts) went into the system, or 57.25% of the 26.2 pint system capacity. The RAVE recommends not less than 50% antifreeze (for corrosion protection) and not more than 60% (for cooling performance). And a test with my cheapy Walmart hygrometer shows four balls floating and freeze protection down to -25F.
I know a lot of others have trouble with the DII cooling system but I am happy to have not (yet) been among them. No running the engine while filling and bleeding. No parking on a steep hill or hanging the truck by its winch to get the air to the bleed screw (A la The Gods Must Be Crazy. If you own a Rover and haven't seen that movie you really should see it.). No tin foil hats, standing on one foot or incense-aided spells or incantations.
It is completely normal for the temp to rise above 200F after the engine is shut off and the coolant is not being circulated and cooled by the radiator.
Last edited by mln01; 12-04-2016 at 07:23 AM.
#46
12-04-2016, 08:58 AM
You can always use one of these if you have an air compressor:
U-View 550000 Air Lift Vacuum And Cooling System Tester And Refiller | eBay
should not be 100% necessary, but definitely works.
U-View 550000 Air Lift Vacuum And Cooling System Tester And Refiller | eBay
should not be 100% necessary, but definitely works.
#47
12-04-2016, 12:46 PM
Super Moderator
I'm with 01 on this, I have yet to have any issues with drain/fill on a D2. My technique is a little different, but I have the same results. With any engine off the temps are going to climb as coolant is no longer flowing. However that temp will climb, but then quickly drop as the engine cools.
On my last drain/fill I just removed the SAI sensor/plug on the radiator (both my non SAI equipped D2's have SAI compatible radiators) and let the water flow thru until it went clear. Then I drained it, filled it, and warmed it up, let it cool, topped it off, ran it, and after that let it cool one more time and topped it off if needed.
My 07 3.7L I5 equipped H3 that I used to own was much much much harder to get the system burped of air vs any of my D2's.
On my last drain/fill I just removed the SAI sensor/plug on the radiator (both my non SAI equipped D2's have SAI compatible radiators) and let the water flow thru until it went clear. Then I drained it, filled it, and warmed it up, let it cool, topped it off, ran it, and after that let it cool one more time and topped it off if needed.
My 07 3.7L I5 equipped H3 that I used to own was much much much harder to get the system burped of air vs any of my D2's.
#48
12-04-2016, 09:37 PM
ya, drove it last night to walmart. sat around 188 when moving and at idle and waiting a few minutes it stops at 203.
i just turn it off at 150 as iv done the 180 or 190 range and after i shut off, the engine starts warming up fast to like 208 and then it slowly drops back down.
it seems like the only air pocket now is the heater core. i would think the radiator and the block are mostly full along with the reservoir.
i just turn it off at 150 as iv done the 180 or 190 range and after i shut off, the engine starts warming up fast to like 208 and then it slowly drops back down.
it seems like the only air pocket now is the heater core. i would think the radiator and the block are mostly full along with the reservoir.
I bought a kit at O'reillys that has a T-fitting that splices into the heater inlet/outlet hoses with a garden hose adapter. You flushed everything else but I forgot to mention the heater-core portion!
https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-K.../dp/B000CCFY5W
Last edited by chubbs878; 12-04-2016 at 09:39 PM.
#49
12-05-2016, 08:59 PM