After staying late after work to replace the air shocks (with lifetime Arnott's) and redesign the entire SLS system, I was rewarded with a perfect first trailer experience from Northern VA up to Philly and back.

So basically for those of you who are wondering, I had previously modified the SLS to use an aftermarket compressor... but after my SLABs ECU decided (months later) my "compressor" was over its' duty cycle (somehow it was interpreting the aftermarket compressor or aftermarket exhaust valve resistance as being incorrect) it went into a limp mode and only activated the compressor for a few seconds - not enough for my old leaky air springs.. so I went all-out and replaced the air springs, and to solve the inflation time issue I went with the modern Land Rover approach; accumulator tank!

To make a long story short(er) I used an old range rover air tank, connected a line up to the OEM compressor box area with a tee (this area is now only for solenoids) One side goes up to engine bay to the compressor (where I have another 2 tees, one to compressor, one to pressure switch/relay so it keeps the tank inflated correctly, and one to a pressure sender for my gauges) the other side under the car goes to a solenoid - its wires simply use the OEM compressor circuit. Instead of the SLABS turning on a compressor to inflate the springs, it opens the valve instead - now I get instant high pressure and it's much quicker (within the time limit of my "limp mode") the SLABS ecu has no idea haha.

I actually used an original Disco II valve block thing that I had stripped out accidentally (the left / right one fed by a common center fitting) the center fitting connects to the original SLABS left/right valve assy. center fitting. So I have 4 valves with their center supply lines connected to eachother. The beauty of this is that (besides the fact that I didn't have to buy any new solenoids!) it's waterproof and has the same resistance the SLABS is looking for since they're OEM. So, the 2 on one block are still left and right.. that's unchanged. The other 2 on the new block are inflate and exhaust (the two circuits previously connected to the original compressor). This is sweet because I used the stripped out solenoid as the exhaust, since nothing needs to connect to it I also have another tee on one of the air spring lines that goes to another pressure sending unit. Combined with the compressor line sender, I can now read my air spring pressure and tank pressures on a digital gauge in the car (cool to know what loads you're under when towing / hauling.. and I needed to make sure I selected the right pressure switch to keep the tank at a high enough level to successfully inflate the air springs, which wasn't documented ANYWHERE online). So, she's done! Here's the gauge in action before I mounted it.. top is accumulator tank pressure, bottom is what the springs are currently at.



ANYWAYS.
Besides pissing off the ABS and getting the 3 amigos when I had to slam on the brakes with the trailer (idiot cut me off in stop/go traffic) which triggered a front right wheel speed sensor error (ONLY happened when I slammed on the brakes, I cleared it and hasn't come back.. wtf?) she's doing good otherwise.

I did have a slight ticking with RPM, sounded like lifters.. she was a little low on oil and it went away after I added 1/2 qt? ..which is strange. I had regular 10-40 non-syn in there (3500mi intervals, I'm about 50 miles from my next change, was avoiding syn because I know she'll leak like a siv) but I'm thinking about going with 15-50 synthetic for the summer. Is this too thick for the rover 4.0? I'll be towing more, including a 1000 mile round trip down to the beach and back with the boat (more than likely that'll be in temps in the 90s) I just feel like the cheapo oil is sheering out to water, which is causing the ticking (and pretty much giving me some ideas as to the crapo job it's doing inside the engine as well). For the record it was actually the valvoline Max-Life Semi-Synthetic 10-40, which I thought woulda been thick enough but who knows.

Any input would be appreciated, thanks!

 

Nice Pics. I love that color Disco!

 

I have used the Mobil 1 15w-50 but have since stopped because it is over priced and I cant buy it anywhere any more.
Try the Rotella 15w-40, it will not sheer down and it will take the added heat and strain of towing in 90+ temps all day long.