So I finally got the engine out...




To get it down to the bare block I think my next step is to remove the torque converter (flywheel?)

How do I get this off so I can put it on an engine stand?





UPDATE:

I got the torque converter disconnected...








hopefully I'll be removing the fly wheel tonight and getting the engine secured onto an engine stand.

 

The torque convertor should have been unbolted from the fly wheel prior to pulling the engine and I am very surprised you were able to pull the engine with it still attached, that must have been a pain in the ***, especially without the help of a load leveler. You should look into buying one for when you reinstall the engine. They run about $40 and are worth every penny. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FSsV7AodslkAqw

If I remember correctly there is a rubber plug (1 in each side of the oil pan) and you remove the rubber plug and rotate the flywheel/crankshaft to get access, and remove the 4 bolts holding the torque converter on.

Look at steps 12 and 13:
convertor removal.pdf

 

Where did you get the fancy cylinder covers?

 

So what's the story with your engine?

You can get to those bolts through the holes on the sides like Jared said or, since you are going to drop the oil pan anyway, you can get to the bolts from inside a little easier with more room to work. Either way, you will see the bolt heads through cutouts in the flywheel. 4 of em... remove 1 then 1/4 turn on the crank remove the next, etc.
You can turn the crank with the bolt up front holding the pulley to get to each one.
Don't let the torque converter fall and hit the pavement. and when putting the torque converter back onto the transmission it has to turn and click into place several times so do some searching and reading on that before you put it back in.

If you don't have the rave manual you will need to download it. Everything has to be done perfect..no room for error on anything when putting it all back together.

Be sure to mark your rod caps when taking them off and put them back on the same exact rods in the same direction they were on the rods.

Don't nick, bump or scratch your crank journals. It will need to be polished anyway, and probably turned but handle it with care.

If you are re-using your old cam and lifters, the lifters need to go back onto the cam just as they were removed so each lifter will ride on the cam same place it was to begin with....they wear together.
Cut holes in a large piece of cardboard to stick the lifters in and label the holes for location of each lifter, or you can use egg cartons to store the lifters. label the locations and put alot of oil on the lifters and cam for storage.

Keep everything you plan to re-use oiled up good. "rust never sleeps"

 

X1. Be very careful when you reinstall the engine as you have to relocate it thro the autobox oil pump which is easily damaged. You will defo need a load leveller and as much help as you can muster. It would have been easier to leave the TQ attached in the autobox and not on the engine. Personally I'd detach from the flywheel and put a new TQ in the autobox first then realign the engine very, very carefully. Check out the RAVE procedure or talk to your friendly local LR dealership before blundering on with reinstalling and maybe creating yourself another problem.

 

i believe i have a cracked block.

ive had over heating issues for the 2 years ive owned it
I had the head gaskets done after 1 year but then after overheating on the highway have not been able to drive it for more than 2 minutes.

one of my middle cylinders on the driver side has been steamed cleaned and I was getting a misfire code for that cylinder before I realized I needed to take it apart.

from posting images on this forum, I think the cause is a cracked block behind the cylinder sleeve.

my plan is to pressure test the block once i get all of the remaining components out of the way.

here is what i found when i first took the heads off

 

Probably so.... when pressure testing spray mist (soapy water) around the tops of the liners and inside the liners. They get cracks and tiny holes.

Keep us posted.

Hard to get that engine out with the torque converter attached. Hope you didn't wreck your trans pump.

(edit) I now see you started a new thread with the same project. I forgot I had mentioned all the stuff about the rod caps, etc on your old thread...

 

I see you're an eco warrior running green fuel or you've spilt coolant in the bores .................... or you've aquired a cracked head/block. Hope it isn't the latter for your bank balances' sake.

 

how do i know if wrecked the transmission pump?

what is it called in the rave?

 

RAVE page 44-42 shows the pump. Check thro the whole section including the description and operation as it helps to understand the autobox. Read thro the section on gearbox removal and replacement which mentions aligning the shaft thro the pump. How do you know whether it's damaged, well that's difficult without visible signs of damage but you can remove it and pressure test on a bench.