I thought I was seeing bubbles in several places around that liner but figured it must be stains or something since he said not leaking?

Looks like it's either leaking right there or has leaked there in the past?

What are those white spots around #5 hole that look like clusters of tiny bubbles?

 

so in that picture it does look like bubbles but i'm not sure...

i dont remember seeing those when i did the test.

and if they are bubbles wouldn't i have seen a drop in pressure over the 10 minutes i had the block at 40 psi?


Here is another picture of that side and i see that i have that stain on a few places on the block.
i know i really sprayed it with the soapy water so it could just be pooled up there...

 

I'd test it again and watch close right there with a good light and a magnifying glass if needed because if it's leaking any right there it will leak more when the engine is hot.

Could be like you said just pooled up there but the bubbles are right around that edge and that's exactly how a leak looks.
But I see down by the piston pools of bubbles so may just be like you say with suds lingering there around the liner and
I see more down by the edge of the deck but I figure that just ran down.

Tilt the block over where the surface is level and the soap will stay on it. Take almost straight dish soap and put around the liner edge with you finger if needed then pump it up and let it sit and look it over good.

 

i would re-pressurize the block to 40 pound and let it sit, do not release the pressure see how long it will hold it.
I would also heat that bore with good heat gun or torch slightly to see what happen.
it does look in the picture that it is leaking, but you said you didn't lose pressure.

 

looks like it is that sleeve

i pressurized the block to 58 psi and let it sit for 50 minutes
i started seeing the bubbles almost right away but after 50 minutes it only dropped to 55 psi

so is any amount of bubbles mean that engine block is shot?

Initial Pressure


Air Bubbles


Final Pressure (After 50 Minutes)

 

My opinion would be that you need another block. When the block gets hot it will open up and leak more. That's why you were getting coolant into the cylinder. Any leak is no good. (good eyes drowssap)

You can probably find a good block for not too much $ with a 30 day guarantee.
Then you can pressure test it before moving everything over into it and before your guarantee runs out.

Check with Paul Grant, Abran, Drillbit (forum members) and on ebay, but be sure you buy from a reputable seller if buying on ebay and make sure it has a money back guarantee and that you pay using paypal or a credit card so you wont get stuck..

But you also have to factor in that when swapping all of your internals over to the replacement block, you will need all new rod and main bolts, probably will need the crank polished or turned, new rod and main bearings since you wouldn't want to tear it completely down and then re-use your old bearings, probably new cam bearings while you have it down since you won't be using the same cam that came out the new replacement block and then you'll probably want a new cam to go with the new cam bearings and new lifters to go with the new cam, new rings since yours will not be worn to match the replacement block,
and that's in addition to all of your other topend stuff, head gaskets, head bolts, gaskets , seals, etc., etc.....alot of that you were going to have to buy anyway.
and while you are going this far I would carry the new block to a machine shop and have it cleaned and the decks and everything checked to be sure all is still square and new freeze plugs and new cam bearings put in and the heads skimmed and rebuilt.

Some may say that since your leak is slow that you may be able to stop it with block sealer of some sort but, you would have to put it all back together and run it to put block sealer in it and then it probably will not hold and you would have done all new head gaskets, head bolts, seals and other gaskets and all the labor for nothing.
I wouldn't waste all of the time and money putting it back together with this block since it'll leak alot more that it's showing now when it's hot.

They say a new top hated block is the way to go but, you will have some serious money in it before it's all done if you go that route.

Wait until some others chime in to get second opinions.....

If you do end up going all the way, use elring head gaskets, new head bolts or studs, corteco front seal, VR front cover gasket, new timing set if yours have never been changed, and you can get King bearings and good quality finished cam bearings from Turner in UK for alot less than from here. Their king rod bearings are about $35 and finished cam bearings are about the same or maybe a little less.
Only use the king tri-metal bearings if you are getting the crank polished or turned. If you are just going to put in new bearings without prepping the crank then use silicon aluminum bearings.

 

Put it back together and run 2 bottles of blue devil pour and go in it with 2/3 gallon of coolant and the rest water. It's a small crack and will seal up easily.

 

Sorry you have a failed block . A typical slipped liner most likely caused by a crack in the bore roughly next to the head bolt hole .so now you have to decide what to do.

 

Time for liners, check out Robinson's article on the issue with the disco II blocks

JE Robison Service — the blog: The last word on Land Rover liner failures - I hope!

 

Not sure where you're located but this is the best price I've found for liners Land Rover Re-Sleeving « Q and E – Engine & Machine Shop / Q&E