As always, most appreciative of the assistance, especially the time that went into the ideas when I was trying to troubleshoot the last one.
I figured I would share the data from the trip, but to me, it all looks OK, and is cooler than when I started so I'm happy. I still think it runs a few degrees above where most of yours run at, but I'm just guessing it is what it is at this point.
Took a trip from near NYC to Philly yesterday and today.
Highway driving (65-80MPH): 208-212 degrees
Back road driving (35-45MPH): 215-221
Stop and go/city/traffic (idle-25MPH): 221-227
It seems like everything is in working order. When I accelerate during any of the conditions above, the temp drops a few degrees due to a higher flow rate. I will admit I was a slave to the Ultra Gauge the entire time, but I now just have to learn to not worry (alarm set). I would like it to run a touch cooler, but the entire system is new so I think I'm good. I might change out the temp sensor for the heck of it, but I think it is all good.
How do those numbers sound to you?
Also, the HD fan clutch seems to work. Really takes some power away from the truck though. The fan seems to be very loud much more often, even when the truck is cold in the morning. One on the highway and airflow is good it is much quieter as I assume it is no longer coupled, and power is back to normal.

 

So, you are way to high. What have you done to improve this? Have you replaced the t/stat, what coolant are you running, are you using Water Wetter, is your electric fan working, have you replaced your viscus clutch yet and has the radiator been replaced yet?????

 

As I recall, everything Mike mentioned has been done (rad, viscous clutch, electric fan comes on, stat), but the new stat was bad outta box, so the old one went back. Old one could be a big part of this. But if the coolant temp sender was out of kilter, it could also make reading high. I would wonder if water entering coolant reserve tank, since it circulates directly from the throttle body heater, might be a place to test with an IR thermometer, as well as other various spots. If the coolant sensor is telling the ultra gauge it is 230 F, and temp of upper hose is 190... might be the sensor. To replace the coolant sensor is less work than the thermostat for sure, but may not be the problem.

Could test coolant sensor by removing, leave hooked up to truck, switch on position 2, don't crank, Ultra Gauge will show stat temp. Dunk in hot water in coffee cup measured by another thermometer. Sensor easier to change than stat. But stat could certainly be bad. Don't suspect water pump, but don't know if you spent a gasket and inspected it. Don't suspect cracked block (no heat spikes) or head gasket (no waterfall, white smoke, coolant loss).

 

Yes Mike, as Buzz said it is all done. I will give you the Cliff's Notes.

• The truck ran fine always never overheated, never lost coolant, but just for safety sake I got an Ultra Gauge. Before I bought it, head gaskets and just about everything else was done (including radiator, water pump, t-stat, etc).
• My temps were constantly running in the 220-235 range
• The fan clutch appeared toasted, and the fan had a couple chunks missing
• Replaced fan clutch (Heavy Duty) and a new fan
• Now that I had a fan that was really working, it sucked loose a hidden piece of the old fan, and sent it thru my radiator a few times
• Since I needed a new radiator, I figured I would also do the water pump, t-stat and belt too
• Put it all in, and had a bad new t-stat. Tested and swapped the old one back in and it was fine (it is only 1.5 years old anyway). It works fine now.
• Coolant is Peak 50/50 and has been (I flushed it when I got the truck and used that, and flushed it again prior to doing the radiator). I also added a bottle of Water Wetter
• All hoses are in good shape (I replaced pretty much all the hoses when I got it)
• https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ver-ugh-45658/

I am really at a loss for what it could be. I'm happy it is running cooler than before it all started, but would really like to see it lower. I am going to replace the temp sensor, but something is telling me that is not going to be the silver bullet. Thoughts Mike? Buzz? Others?

 

How about your coolant pressure cap, has it been replaced yet, they tend to fail because of the Dexcool. Any coolant lose, does the system seem to have too much pressure on the hoses?

 

That is the frustrating part. No coolant lose, no excess pressure, the cap is clean and nice (1.5 years old, and by then it was not running Dexcool anymore). No signs of trouble at all. Heat in the truck is great, never overheated once and the system overall is new and clean (look at the picture in the link of the old t-stat and pump how clean). I'm running 10W40 Syn and use either a K&N 3001 or M1 301 filter, and do the oil before 3K (more like every 1500 miles as when I do any kind of work, I go and do the oil too).
I'm looking for the one "Ah-ha" thing that it could be I'm overlooking. Maybe it is just the temp sensor sending too high a reading back, but being there have never been issues with hot or cold starting, I'm not sure. For a few bucks, I will likely try that. Only issue I see (and it is very minor) is a slight oil leak by the front crank seal (like one drop a day). I also need a new rubber air intake boot, but again, nothing that connects the dots here.

 

Possible things:

1. Old stat (age does not matter to Murphy's Law)

2. Engine coolant temp sensor - if this is correct, that means you are boiling at idle. So to test that theory, for very low price, allow dealer to remove coolant cap for today's special holiday rate of $478 (lol). Or you can take it off, idle truck, watch Ultra Gauge, if it gets to 212, 220, etc.; then the coolant tank should have plenty of bubbling steam. Careful, of course. But if gauge reads high, and you are not boiling, sensor is suspect. You could also use an infrared thermometer to check a few points.

You could also remove the coolant temp sensor, plunk it in hot water - measured with another thermometer, and see what ultra gauge reads (truck not running).

3. Heater core could be restricted, not blocked. If water slowly flows thru heater core, that could impact how much water passes thru sampling holes in the thermostat. When rad was out, did you happen to flush heater core with a hose? Heater core can be removed from the system with a bypass hose arrangment.

4. Coolant that passes thru throttle plate heater returns to water pump via the large hose from the bottom of the coolant container. Hose should not be kinked or twisted.

 

I might go grab a temp sensor from Advanced tomorrow and give it a whirl. Looks like most of the big stores carry one that fits the Disco.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Coolant-Temperature-Sensor-BWD-Intermotor_19970213-P_290_R|GRPSENSAMS_____
As far as removing it, any special tools or tips and tricks for that one? By looking at it I'm not sure if I will need a special tool or not, maybe just a deep socket?

 

Deep well socket will not work because of the fuel rail. 7/8" open end wrench works, provided you have removed enough in front to get access.

*yes, it's Friday night, I've had a few beers, and have nothing better to do than go in the garage and see what fits my junk engine I will eventually part out.

 

I'll send you a six pack anytime I'm in a jam! I was hoping maybe some type of sensor removal tool they have as loaners might work. The 7/8 open end looks like it might be a pain over there, but I guess I will see!