More investigating. I'm admittedly not super proficient in multimeter usage, but did go ahead and test voltage across the pink/white wire and black wire connectors at the fuel pump, and with the ignition on, these are my readings. Shouldn't it be 12 volts?

I checked the fuel pump fuse in the engine bay and it's good. Swapped the relay with two other spares and no change.

 

@Brandon318 watch your tach when you it turning over, it should bounce if the CPS is good. No start is always pretty simple air/fuel/spark, so start bog simple:

1. Pull the air filter and all the lines up to the throttle body check each one to make sure they are clear, no rodents mostly,make sure the filter box is empty. check and make sure the butterfly valve in the throttle body moves fully and smoothly. Put it all back together, but leave top of the air filter above the air filter box.
2. Get a 20.00 spark tester and check each lead to each plug you should get a good strong light
3. Check the coil pack connectors at both ends, and the cable it self. If you have re-located your cable may have become damaged
4. Last check you alternator output,postive to the alternator then check grounding points

 

Will do! Also despite those MM readings, when I crank the engine I can hear the pump energizing. Maybe I’m just reading it wrong.

 

The fuel pump runs for about 20 seconds when you put the key into the Run position and then it turns off and will not run again until you're cranking the engine. The logic is they want to pressurize the fuel rail but in case there is a leaking fuel injector they don't want to keep pushing the pressure to the fuel rail and potentially hydrolock the engine. When you are cranking the engine the fuel pump runs again. You already established you have good fuel pressure so I'm not surprised the pump change didn't correct your issue. The base logic for the Rover ECU is that the ignition should always fire when cranking and if for some reason the ECU does not receive the correct signals from the crank position sensor that it turns off the injectors. Again the logic is they do not want to cause a fire or hydrolock the engine by injecting fuel that cannot be burned or injecting fuel at the wrong time and causing an explosion. If your plug wires are firing but you have a no start condition then the ECU has turned off the injectors. The most common reason for that is the crank position sensor however I would not entirely rule out a bad ECU. I recently had one that was throwing a code on the idle air control valve and the only fix that corrected it was replacing the ecu.

 

Noted. Double checked the new CPS, verified that the spacers were between the sensor and nut, and that the connector was secure. I mean... unless it's a DOA Bosch CPS, that problem should be ruled out yeah? I have another new Bosch CPS in inventory and can swap that in later to hopefully rule out a DOA one.

ECU... what a pain lol. I'll do a search too, but overall broad strokes, just buy one off eBay and hope it's good? What about the ECU goes bad like this? I have a Nanocom if somehow syncing it to the BCU is needed. Some threads make it sound like it is, others say it's a plug and play.

 

The ECU has to be matched to the bcu, so you need to buy both from a truck and they need to be known working. I would recommend contacting will Tillery at the Rover guy.com and getting a pair from him. You could get one off of eBay but it's a bit more of a crapshoot. The good news is if it turns out that is not your problem and it's something else you can either keep them as a spare set or sell them on eBay and get your money back. I have had three bad ecu's BCU combos in my 27 disco career. The first set for someone known reason the oxygen sensor drivers quit working. The second one only just recently happened and the problem with it was that the IAC valve could not function correctly and it gave a constant check engine light code unless I replaced it. The third one was actually a bad BCU and it would not roll down the passenger side window for some reason. All three were corrected by swapping the combo with no other changes needed so it definitely indicated for whatever reason that particular computer was bad. Likely an internal relay failure. To swap a matched pair out all that is needed is to disconnect the battery swap in the new pair, reconnect the battery, and then turn on the ignition switch for about 20 minutes while hooked to a battery charger to allow the ecu-bcu pair to sync with the internal fuse box.

 

Gotcha. Will do. So just to confirm, there’s no provision to use Nanocom to pair a replacement ECU with my existing BCU?

What good is it for these eBay sellers to sell a ECU by itself if they can’t be used without their matching BCU counterpart? I guess they just don’t know what they don’t know?

 

Did you check the fuel pressure when the car was cranking and wouldn't start? The good pressure you showed was when the engine was running well and had no symptoms.

 

I did not, but theoretically that's irrelevant now that the fuel pump is replaced.

 

Update: Another new CPS installed, still no start. Cranks and cranks like it did before.