Fixing the 3 Amigos?
#11
04-26-2018, 12:13 PM
When I did Option B seven years ago I did not replace the switches or seals.
As Josh Salas describes in his write-up, I inspected carefully for any sign of leaking brake fluid in the bores and tested the resistance of the switches. All was good so I buttoned up everything and all's been fine. My signature isn't completely correct now, because I have had The Boys from South of the Border return a couple times in the last six months, but as Best said, the problem was with a wheel speed sensor (right rear, signal erratic, intermittent).
There's certainly nothing wrong with going ahead and replacing the switches (and perhaps the seals), but I can sometimes be a cheapskate! I figured that if there was a problem down the road with the switches or seals I could address it pretty easily. In the meantime I saved the $90 or whatever it was the new switches would cost.
And I know you've already agreed, but I also agree with Best that Option B is a better decision than replacing the entire module. Option B is easier, and even if the other module is good now there's a pretty good chance it will fail later (although if it's made it this many years without the printed circuit failing maybe it won't fail).
As Josh Salas describes in his write-up, I inspected carefully for any sign of leaking brake fluid in the bores and tested the resistance of the switches. All was good so I buttoned up everything and all's been fine. My signature isn't completely correct now, because I have had The Boys from South of the Border return a couple times in the last six months, but as Best said, the problem was with a wheel speed sensor (right rear, signal erratic, intermittent).
There's certainly nothing wrong with going ahead and replacing the switches (and perhaps the seals), but I can sometimes be a cheapskate! I figured that if there was a problem down the road with the switches or seals I could address it pretty easily. In the meantime I saved the $90 or whatever it was the new switches would cost.
And I know you've already agreed, but I also agree with Best that Option B is a better decision than replacing the entire module. Option B is easier, and even if the other module is good now there's a pretty good chance it will fail later (although if it's made it this many years without the printed circuit failing maybe it won't fail).
#12
04-26-2018, 02:44 PM
Super Moderator
Last few shuttle valve switches I grabbed for 35.00-40.00, but prices can go up/down. I just change em out on customer cars as #1 if I’m doing Mod B I’m already in there, #2 I don’t want it coming back, and #3 the customer usually has no problem slapping a part on if it means years of no problems.
Most of the time the switches still meter out fine, but all the wiring from the switch to the plug is cracked all to hell (maybe a TX thing) and I just don’t trust it after I see that.
Most of the time the switches still meter out fine, but all the wiring from the switch to the plug is cracked all to hell (maybe a TX thing) and I just don’t trust it after I see that.
#13
05-12-2018, 07:20 PM
i have done the option B and now the lights are back. i did the ohm test on the speed sensors and one reads .950 and all others read 1.15. Is my ecu that sensitive? I was told good range is 950 - 1000 but they are all new and same brand. Sorry if I didn't approach this correctly. My first time coming to anything like this. Thank you for any help.
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