OK, I am really at wits end here. Disco Mike, if you're out there, please weigh in.

My son's '04 D2 HSE has had the 4 Amigos warning lights on and off for over a year:

1. ABS
2. Off Road
3. Traction Control
4. Brake (I understand this "amigo" is unique to '04 D2, though there is some controversy/disagreement about that)

I have a CReader123 ODBII reader that can do "generic ODBII" as well as having vehicle-specific libraries. It can access/read the ECU, Trans, ABS and SRS systems on a D2.

It was throwing the "rough road condition" p1682 code in the ECU and the right rear speed sensor codes in the ABS (didn't write them down).

We replaced the right rear sensor to the rear axle connector first. That worked for a while, but same codes came back.

So we replaced the entire hub (from Land Rover Utah guys) plus sensor (sensor came with hub) with sensor wired all the way back to the SLABS -- no more intermediate electrical connector at the axle. Worked for several months then 4 Amigos came back.

Over Christmas my son was back, so last night we replaced the ABS shuttle switch (pretty easy except for the pink locktite on those allen screws: both the old ones coming out and the new ones going in). The shuttle valve that was removed appeared to be in perfect shape: no brake fluid on it, wires all as clean and solid as the new valve that replaced it.

Took for a drive this morning (also smoke tested it last night as it was throwing P030x codes: found small 2 leaks at the valley gasket; everyone should have/make themselves a smoke tester, incredibly useful tool).

It is now throwing 5 Amigos:

1. ABS
2. Off Road
3. Traction Control
4. Brake
5. Hill Descent Control (solid green)

And the same codes are back: rough road on the ECU subsystem, right rear sensor codes on the ABS subsystem.

The vehicle was driven in high range.

Is the HDC solid green light a temporary condition that will go off?

Is driving it with a solid green HDC bad?

When I decelerated during the test drive, it felt like it had more load/drag than normal (that's what HDC would do, right), but I may just be overly sensitive/paranoid.

Given everything we've done so far, could we just have a SLAB with a bad input/interface for that right rear wheel? Is there any way to test it other than swapping out our SLAB with a known good one?


For the sake of full disclosure, one final thing about the shuttle valve replacement. When I "dropped" the original black plastic valve "platform", the electrical plug came out of its holder on the platform, stayed in the female connector and had to be pulled out independently with some wiggling. When I put the new shuttle valve in, I installed it as a single unit, i.e., the plug was secured to its holder on the valve platform, and I aligned and pushed it in place together as a single unit, presuming that the electrical plug had fully engaged in the female connector.

And the vehicle has no corning enhancement system and was converted from a self-leveling suspension to springs by the previous owner's shop (have the completed work order).

 

sorry that rough road condition code was supposed to be p1590, not p1682 (that p1682 different issue with my wife's Saab -- fixing cars today between playoff games)

 

Why did you replace the shuttle valve switches? Were you getting an ABS code that indicated a problem with the shuttle valve switches?

If you were, the classic problem on the D2 is not a failure of the switces themselves, but of a small printed circuit board in the modulator connecting the switches to the wiring harness. The fix for it that dozens and dozens of us have done is to bypass the failed printed circuit board performing what is called the Option B bypass. Search on this forum or Google it for more information, but again, did you have a code indicating a problem with the switches?

 

X1

There is a 'sticky' fix, option B, for the shuttle valve, shuttle valve seals and printed circuit. Normally there is the ever popular 3 Amigos which is common to various failures of the ABS modulator, battery power supply being low, earthing grounds and wheel ABS sensors. The 3 Amigos consists of ABS, Traction Control and HDC lights illuminating. These are usually fixed relatively easily. As for the brake light, I reckon it may be a failure of the brake fluid cap or it may be the reservoir is overfilled. The Offroad light, which I have never experienced, is maybe something to do with an ABS wheel sensor failure, but I'm guessing on that one.

I've found the sticky SOB.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...s-fault-26847/

 

Thanks for all the replies.

First regarding the shuttle valve, no, I didn't have a code for it. Was just throwing parts at it. (cautionary story below about throwing parts at things on a different vehicle).

I saw those Option A and B fixes. Do they require removing the ABS modulator or just the shuttle valve (I don't want to deal with the "power bleed")? Or is is just jumpering around the shuttle valve (I can use the old one for that)?

if it doesn't involve removing the modulator itself, then I'll try that this weekend.

-------------------------------

Now to the cautionary tale of the dangers of using brute force part swapping to try and fix a problem.

While my wife and I were still living in London, my daughter was rear-ended in her '07 Saab '93 (yes, I have 2 Saabs: once I learned the intricacies of one, decided to buy another as the price-performance ratio is incredible as long as you have a junkyard with a steady supply of parts -- fortunately, I have not one, but two such yards withn 20 miles).

Though the car still drove and wasn't "bent" in terms of alignment, the insurance declared it a total, so she took the money ($5K), bought it back for $500, bought a trunk lid and bumper at a junkyard, some paint, re-shot it with the help of my brother (amazingly good job). In the end, she made just over $4,000 on the deal.

However, after doing the body work, the car wouldn't start. The car has no fuel cutoff, she and my brother confirmed there was spark, then concluded it was the fuel pump. I ordered a one while still in UK, and it was the first job when I got home. It sucked: no lift, only jackstand-high off ground, had to remove exhaust, dropped a full tank (15 gal x 7lb/gal =105lbs of fuel alone), pump-to-tank locking ring took a full 5ft breaker bar to move, etc.

Once replaced, however, car still wouldn't start. So finally went to online shop manual I have, discovered that the rear trunk latch mechanism is not indexed under "body" but rather anti-theft. This got me to thinking that the only thing that had electrically changed on the car was the trunk mechanism. So swapped the latch on the junkyard trunk for the latch on the crushed trunk and voila, it started right up.

Nowhere does it mention that the latch is somehow "paired" with the car for some anti-theft logic only a Swede could understand (if any Swedes are listening, some insight on how you guys think would be greatly appreciated).

 

Option B can be done without removing the modulator. You just raise the modulator and support it with a short piece of 2x4. It's essentially the same work you did to replace the switches, except for cutting, splicing and heatshrinking the wiring.

But again, if you aren't getting shuttle valve switch codes why do Option B? Are you not getting any ABS codes now? If not I don't understand why you have the Three Amigos.

 

Nice one, Scandinavian ingenuity

As far as the Wabco modulator goes, to change the shuttle valves is a doddle, unclip the pipes from the firewall, remove the 3 mounting screws lift up the modulator onto a block and undo the 2 or 3, (can't remember exactly) caphead screws. I used a 1/4" ratchet drive with an Allen head on. It takes about 30-60 minutes all up. Don't forget to unplug the modulator plugs first though.

Min01 is right, first check you defo have the 3 Amigos first otherwise you could be wasting cash and time.

If you want to go into power brake bleeding, I have the Britpart Lynx hooked to a cheapo Linx (excuse the pun) tablet and it does the job fine. I haven't fully stretched the Lynx diag yet to all of the functions but to date it works a dream, it's designed/made by Omitec who do know their onions on software.

 

1999 Discovery II. Did the head gaskets, went okay. Lots of codes at start up, replaced plugs, replaced coil, replaced IACV, still getting code 1553 and have super-heated exhaust. Ideas anyone?