Four Amigos!
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
Hi Charlie, you're being greedy eh, there are only 3 amigos 
It sounds like you have either a duff ABS sensor on the wheels (or more maybe) or the ABS modulator is throwing a 'wobbly'. Problem is bleeding the ABS system correctly requires the A & B brake circuits to be activated and there are only a few diagnostic tools capable of this, Nanocom, Hawkeye and Lynx in my world over here. Start with the easiest, the ABS wheel sensors, clean each one then electrically disconnect each one, clean it and spray them with electrical contact spray and re-connect them. Then check and clear all the ABS/brake faults again. If the 3 amigos return then I'm afraid it's down to a sequenced bleed of the braking system. If they still appear you will need to do Option B on the modulator and then re-bleed the system. Good luck.
It sounds like you have either a duff ABS sensor on the wheels (or more maybe) or the ABS modulator is throwing a 'wobbly'. Problem is bleeding the ABS system correctly requires the A & B brake circuits to be activated and there are only a few diagnostic tools capable of this, Nanocom, Hawkeye and Lynx in my world over here. Start with the easiest, the ABS wheel sensors, clean each one then electrically disconnect each one, clean it and spray them with electrical contact spray and re-connect them. Then check and clear all the ABS/brake faults again. If the 3 amigos return then I'm afraid it's down to a sequenced bleed of the braking system. If they still appear you will need to do Option B on the modulator and then re-bleed the system. Good luck.
I got some Chinese abs sensors once and the connectors wouldn't fit, so... YOLO... I cut and soldered. Ugh.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,169
Likes: 52
From: Tampa, FL
FWIW, the 4 amigos are the same code you get when you pull the fuse for the ABS system. So, before you go too crazy check the fuse, and be sure there's not a fault in the wiring to the ABS modulator.
Baja
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 5,845
Likes: 368
From: Near Bordeaux, France
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
That's USEFUL information! I'll check that out.
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
If I remember correctly the smaller O-Ring goes behind the actual master cylinder inside the yellow plastic piece at the back of the master cylinder. The larger O-Ring then goes on the outside of the yellow plastic piece to seal between the Brake Booster and Master Cylinder.
My 02 suffers from the double pump the brake pedal issue and I haven't tried swapping the valve out that attaches to the actual booster.
I may have to give that a shot, as the rest of the system seems perfect and in great shape. After the double pump it stops fine.
My 02 suffers from the double pump the brake pedal issue and I haven't tried swapping the valve out that attaches to the actual booster.
I may have to give that a shot, as the rest of the system seems perfect and in great shape. After the double pump it stops fine.
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
Follow up
So even in the wild west there are some warning lights that will not pass inspection. To wit, the red brake light (fourth amigo).
I disconnected the battery and tied the positive and negative cakes together for a few minutes and that took care of that.
Silly rover.
I disconnected the battery and tied the positive and negative cakes together for a few minutes and that took care of that.
Silly rover.
The smaller O-Ring rest inside the yellow cover. Normally the 65-70 Rebuild kit's come with the reservoir seals, reservoir, cap, metal clip, yellow end cap, and the O-Rings.
I've honestly never come across a D2 that was leaking from those O-Rings. It's always the seals between the Master Cylinder and the reservoir (mainly the back one) that fail and puke brake fluid all over the place.
When I've replaced that yellow cover at the back of the master cylinder I usually break the tabs on the old one, replace the O-Rings, and install the new yellow cover.
If you were to start having the brake fluid level drop without any noticeable leaks then it could be the rear of the Master Cylinder leaking, but at that point I'd replace the entire thing. My 99 has the aftermarket one on it from AllMakes4x4 and it looks like a much beefier/improved unit over the skinny OEM black painted one. If your brake fluid level isn't dropping I'm pretty sure that one little O-Ring isn't going to bother ya.
I've honestly never come across a D2 that was leaking from those O-Rings. It's always the seals between the Master Cylinder and the reservoir (mainly the back one) that fail and puke brake fluid all over the place.
When I've replaced that yellow cover at the back of the master cylinder I usually break the tabs on the old one, replace the O-Rings, and install the new yellow cover.
If you were to start having the brake fluid level drop without any noticeable leaks then it could be the rear of the Master Cylinder leaking, but at that point I'd replace the entire thing. My 99 has the aftermarket one on it from AllMakes4x4 and it looks like a much beefier/improved unit over the skinny OEM black painted one. If your brake fluid level isn't dropping I'm pretty sure that one little O-Ring isn't going to bother ya.
Thread Starter
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
The smaller O-Ring rest inside the yellow cover. Normally the 65-70 Rebuild kit's come with the reservoir seals, reservoir, cap, metal clip, yellow end cap, and the O-Rings.
I've honestly never come across a D2 that was leaking from those O-Rings. It's always the seals between the Master Cylinder and the reservoir (mainly the back one) that fail and puke brake fluid all over the place.
When I've replaced that yellow cover at the back of the master cylinder I usually break the tabs on the old one, replace the O-Rings, and install the new yellow cover.
If you were to start having the brake fluid level drop without any noticeable leaks then it could be the rear of the Master Cylinder leaking, but at that point I'd replace the entire thing. My 99 has the aftermarket one on it from AllMakes4x4 and it looks like a much beefier/improved unit over the skinny OEM black painted one. If your brake fluid level isn't dropping I'm pretty sure that one little O-Ring isn't going to bother ya.
I've honestly never come across a D2 that was leaking from those O-Rings. It's always the seals between the Master Cylinder and the reservoir (mainly the back one) that fail and puke brake fluid all over the place.
When I've replaced that yellow cover at the back of the master cylinder I usually break the tabs on the old one, replace the O-Rings, and install the new yellow cover.
If you were to start having the brake fluid level drop without any noticeable leaks then it could be the rear of the Master Cylinder leaking, but at that point I'd replace the entire thing. My 99 has the aftermarket one on it from AllMakes4x4 and it looks like a much beefier/improved unit over the skinny OEM black painted one. If your brake fluid level isn't dropping I'm pretty sure that one little O-Ring isn't going to bother ya.
After it passed, I was talking with the inspector about needing to go beyond my driveway bleed to get more brake pressure and he pulled out a Matco computer with Bluetooth obdii connection; he was able to cycle the abs unit and test everything with it, so I got him to do a brake bleed and WOW. NEW BRAKES!!!! No trips to the dealership for that for me.
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