I have 105,XXX on the 2004 Disco, running Mobil 1 Synthetic 10-30. getting leaks around the front seal...

On other rigs I have owned, I just inserted two sheetrock screws into the seal (one at 9 o'clock, one at 3 o'clock) and removed the seal, then replaced with a new one.. pretty straight forward

Anyone ever remove like this or a pick? or are folks removing the entire cover and subsequently the oil pump. Are folks always replacing oil pumps too?

Thanks
J

 

People replace the water pump, and the oil pump, some do timing chain. Some have posted photos of oil pumps cracked into multiple pieces, they still pump but the PSI is low or varies a great deal.

Major job is getting crank pulley off, but there are several quick and dirty methods. Don't have to take front cover off, so your idea should work. But while you are that close, with D2s in particular known for oil pump issues....

See attached page for RAVE method. Free download of whole RAVE tech manual set below.

 

Just did this job. I took the cover off and I did replace the oil pump as well. Let me tell you....that seal was a PITA to remove. I would suggest removing the cover and checking the oil pump, simply because there was a few guys on the board that found cracked oil pumps (I am one of them) even in '04s. While you are there you might wanna replace your timing chain and sprockets as well. Or.....you can just replace the crank seal, but like I said it was a pain to remove and to insert back in as well. I used the old seal and rubber mullet to insert the new one back in. No fun job.
Ohhhh before I forget, the harmonic pulley is the biggest PITA to remove. I suggest making a tool similar to the OEM. Let me know if you need a drawing for that tool. I know I posted it here before somewhere. Works like a dream.

Cheers!

EDIT: Buzz, me and you seem to be responding to these posts at the same time......we need to arrange a schedule or something hahahahahha.

 

break the crankshaft pully bolt free BEFORE you remove the serpentine belt.
If it starts to move jam a rag between the belt and a pully, it should come off without to much problem. The real problem happens after you have removed the belt; you now have no way to keep the crank from truning. Of course if you have air just hit it with an impact gun.

 

Savannah Buzz - yes, if you can please send the picture of the tool, that would be much appreciated.

Makes sense to just go ahead and do the oil pump, etc...

Thanks

 

See attached.

Works like a champ. Let me confirm on the bolts, but I think I used thick washers and M8X65mm long bolts. If the bolts are too long you will hit a little flex plate behind the harmonic pulley. It's easy to see when you are under the truck and putting the bolts it. You will see them come out the other side. Just don't let them come out too much.

Even for tourqing back to 280 foot/pounds it worked great. Any local machine shop can make it in 5 minutes and charge you maybe 20 bucks or so. Definitelly worth the money. Just make sure it is long enough enough (follow the print), because you want the tool to hit the chassy so you don't have to hold the tool and the torque wrench at the same time.

I'll send the picture later as well.

Boris

 

Eric T just twisted the belt all around the wp shaft, and it worked, of course he is putting in a new WP anyway.