#6 on the drawing attached from workshop manual. Since you didn't hit the lottery, this could be consolation prize... (hose cheaper than valley pan which is cheaper than HG).

 

And also note on number 6 that it may have been routed different if the throttle body heater was leaking. My TBH was bypassed, so where number 6 meets the engine goes over to the coolant reservoir. On mine, it was leaking where it met the engine and also at a hose connector they put in when they moved the hose to extend it and go towards the bottle. Seriously, my leak was exactly the same a real PITA to find the way it ran down.
Here is the connector from a while ago:

 

Thanks for the input guys... All good stuff and (when the rain lets up) I will have more possibilities for the cause of leak when I put the pressure tester on her.
I will make a point of checking all those fittings and hoses, prior to going in to deep!
B

 

The hoses look fine, getting ready to pressure test the engine coolant system. How would you guys get the best view of the drivers side front end... Either the valley gasket or head gasket is what I want a view of when doing the test.
Remove
1 Fan
2 Belt
3 Plastic air intake
4 Ac compressor and put aside
5 Power steering pump and move aside
6 Mounting bracket for these past 2 items
... Should be able to see what I need to now? I know a mirror and a light might work once the fan comes off, but I want to be 100% when I do the test. Any ideas? Do anything different than above and anything to watch out for when messing with these things?
I do have the rave manual, thanks in advance. B

 

Forgot to mention the ACE pump as well

 

You would be doing test with engine stopped, pressure up to 18 - 20 PSi (cap vents at 20), and leave for maybe 30 minutes. Plenty of time to find the leak. No need to remove fan or any parts at this point. Please don't start unbolting parts just to run a coolant test.

 

99% of the time you can find the leak with a inspection mirror and flashlight, that being said I did have to remove my A/C compressor to pin point the leak in my timing cover. But I had already norrowed it down, you still have a ways to go yet.

 

Pressure test done... On the expansion tank, 20 lbs of pressure.
The leak that most jumped put was that of the connections at the throttle body. With inspection all that coolant ran aft, towards the firewall. I put a rag under it and went in deeper to see where the front end leak is coming from. Removed the fan and belt, to get a better top end look.
Front cover looks fine
Looking up at the corner of the valley pan gasket....it looks fine.
Which leads me to believe it is a small leak from the head gasket?
I still could not get perfect look where it is coming from because of the two oil cooler lines (I think that's what they are ) are in the way and no way to see from the top end and it is not a gusher that was easy to see with the mirror.
The pressure test sure exadurated the throttle body leak, but the lower end leak was consistent from what I was seeing with the truck running.
I may put some dye in the system to hopefully end my frustrating search.
Purchased today....
The prestone cooling system flush and the peak coolant. I want to put it in the truck so bad, but want to figure the leak out first
It is just a trickle...maybe I am over thinking this one right now? May flush the system an deal with the leak later. $40 in flush and coolant but what the hell... Get rid of the ole Dexcool.
Thanks for the patience and responses. I have the tester one more day. If there any ideas?

 

20 psi is the max encountered, because cap vents beyond that. So if you take care of throttle body, which could be blown around by wind, you may find at normal operating you don't even have that tiny leak. You can also seal off the throttle body hoses, so rest of system will get up to 20 PSI, may be easier to find.

 

I would also suggest bypassing the throttle body to at least try and isolate it. The picture I posted of the hose is what you have to do. Take the one that goes from the throttle body to the engine and run that from the engine to the overflow tank. You will then totally bypass the throttle body and possibly isolate your leak.