Front and rear AC blower motors and resistors to be replaced
#11
08-08-2012, 10:52 PM
The rover independent shop already bypassed Fuse #7 at the block in the passenger compartment..They cut and spliced the brown red wire with a 25 amp fuse near the connection to the blower and drilled a small hole in the corner of upper floor board on the passenger side ran through the firewall and attached it to the outside of the fuse block under the hood forward at the large positive cable..Can I do something similar to bypass the #6 from inside at the fuse block with Green / yellow wire?
#12
08-09-2012, 05:48 AM
Super Moderator
Yes, but in-line fuse should be as close to power source as possible, not at the far end of the truck. More than one vehicle has been burned up by modified wiring and poor protection. If you are dealing with electrical parts that have been overheated (carbonized), they can "read" 12 volts when no load, but once load is apllied the voltage can drop to almost zero. As the first engineer I worked for at WMAZ said, you gotta see what it does when you sock the sherbert to it.
#13
08-09-2012, 12:01 PM
If both are out at the same time it may be a bad fuseblock. There is a known problem with power transfering from the connectors on the back through the fuseblock to the blower fuses 6 & 7. I had problems with the interior fuseblock and the engine bay fuseblock. Check out my fix from 2008 below.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...m-fixed-22524/
As to the resistors, wide open fan speed bypasses the resistors. If you have wide open fan but no slower speeds it is bad resistors. Otherwise it is likely one of or both fuseblocks that is the problem. Either check for power where I note in my fix or pull a blower and apply 12volt to see if it works before buying any parts. My bypass fix is less than $20(if that is the needed fix).
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...m-fixed-22524/
As to the resistors, wide open fan speed bypasses the resistors. If you have wide open fan but no slower speeds it is bad resistors. Otherwise it is likely one of or both fuseblocks that is the problem. Either check for power where I note in my fix or pull a blower and apply 12volt to see if it works before buying any parts. My bypass fix is less than $20(if that is the needed fix).
Yes, but in-line fuse should be as close to power source as possible, not at the far end of the truck. More than one vehicle has been burned up by modified wiring and poor protection. If you are dealing with electrical parts that have been overheated (carbonized), they can "read" 12 volts when no load, but once load is apllied the voltage can drop to almost zero. As the first engineer I worked for at WMAZ said, you gotta see what it does when you sock the sherbert to it.
#14
08-09-2012, 09:04 PM
AC blowers fixed with bypass of fuse blocks
Thank you so much Savannah B I will try the bypass just behind the fuseblock.. I checked voltage at connector for blower again today...It was at about 9.5 volts and fluctuating up and down between 9.5 and 10 volts.. This seems funny does it not...It should be a solid 12.3 or better correct..A side note here I had my M and S light flash momentarily the other day and my check engine light has been on but is flashing at me occasionally this is just another on going problem..any input?
#15
08-09-2012, 10:02 PM
Glad to see you have rear a/c again.
One note: Land Rover uses a 25 amp fuse for the rear and a 30 amp fuse for the front a/c blower. If the shop used a 25 amp up front you may want to upgrade that one sometime. If it is not blowing fuses now should be okay until you get to it.
Again, congrats on getting air going again.
One note: Land Rover uses a 25 amp fuse for the rear and a 30 amp fuse for the front a/c blower. If the shop used a 25 amp up front you may want to upgrade that one sometime. If it is not blowing fuses now should be okay until you get to it.
Again, congrats on getting air going again.
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