I think I may need to replace the timing cover. 2000 D2. I've put 3 new crankshaft seals in the thing and it's still leaking oil. Only thing I can come up with at this point is a crack that's letting the oil out. Anyway - I'm finding two different part numbers LRJ105040 & LRJ000220.

Some of the parts places list the LRJ000220 as fitting all D2 models. Some of the parts places list that one as 2003-2004 and LRJ105040 for 1999-2002. Who do I trust? If the LRJ000220 fits all years, why is there another partnumber?

The LRJ000220 is easier and a lot cheaper to come by but I don't wan to order the wrong part. 6 years ago for another truck I bought the LRJ105040 and it worked great on a 2001 truck - I paid about $350 6 years ago - today the same part is over $600. I'm sure tariffs have some to do with that, but I can find a LRJ000220 for about $220.

Anyone deal with this recently?

 

If it's just leaking from the front seal have you tried slapping a sleeve onto your harmonic balancer? Also difference is 99-02 4.0L with oil cooler lines then 03-04 4.6L & no oil cooler lines (connections are capped off and usually don't have the proper relief valves installed) from what I've seen.

 

speedy sleeve

 

I thought about the harmonic balancer after the first seal replacement leaked, so I pulled the one off my parts truck. It looked almost new. Leaks just the same. I'm on my third go around with trying again and each time the leak is worse. This last time I put the new seal on the harmonic balancer before putting the tuck back together and it felt snug. Shaft really had very limited wear on it. Even tried a little oil compatible rtv at the back of the seal. Drove it about 3 miles and the leak is worse than ever. Way more than should have come out even with a bad harmonic balancer. That's why I was thinking of just replacing the front cover with new.

Thanks for the info about the valves not being right Best4x4 - that's the info I needed to know.

disco96sd - I'll try the sleeve - it's worth $25 to find out if that will do the trick or not. I really don't want to pull the front cover off and replace it if I don't have to.

 

Here's an old post of mine that might help when it comes to installing the sleeve: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-thing-107359/

 

Thanks Brandon318! I lived in Gilroy for a few years way back when. Beautiful area!

 

Given your description I suppose you ought to check that you have the correct oil seal. I have had consistent success with Corteco brand seals...

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/lan...orteco-err6490

 

Have you done the pcv mod yet? Front main should not leak unless there is crankcase pressure. Do you know how to check that?

 

WaltNYC - I double checked the part number - it's correct.

Extinct - I thought of that too. I cleaned it up and ran it without the oil cap for a bit - still leaks. At idle it doesn't seem to leak, but as soon as it gets a little RPM here come the drips.

Super frustrating. I've done a ton of front seals on all kinds of cars & trucks and never had a problem. I should get the sleeve in today - I'll try and get that installed this evening if I have time.

It's getting hard to want to pull that all apart again - this will be the 4th go around. I guess I'm getting quicker as I've done it so much

EDIT - well, crap. Part showed up - not the right part. Never trust Amazon! New correct part ordered, now I gotta wait till next week for it to get here.

 

The key point is the only way that front seal can leak the way you describe is if you are building crankcase pressure. The oil level in the oil pan is below that seal. The only way oil that drips out of the front cam bearing can come out of that seal is if it is blown out. You don't drive without the cap installed, and the engine typically will not build much pressure at idle. You need to actually have a negative pressure in the crankcase at idle and at rpm. You can test this by stretching a latex glove over the fill tube. It should get sucked in slightly.

I will ask again, have you done the PCV mod? This is the best solution for maintaining negative crankcase pressure. Years ago on my first D2 I had a leak from the cam position sensor which is in the middle of the front cover and has an o-ring seal. The factory baffle was plugged, I was building crankcase pressure, and it relieved itself past that seal. Once it had negative crankcase pressure the leak went away. If fact, that is the secret to 90% of LR engine oil leaks.