Thanks, Casey! The RAVE manpage was a perfect touch. Let me add a few points that may keep the cursing to a minimum .

• When you raise the front of the truck, raise it a little more by the frame and this will give you more room over the front differential, tie rod, etc to slide out the heat shield (no stupid rivets on mine, just one bolt) and starter. I drive the front up on ramps or put jack stands under the axles, depending on the work at hand, then raise the frame and place some more jack stands, for safety.
• After raising the truck as mentioned in the last bullet, I remove the splash panel (if yours is still on)...it's in the way for most work under the engine as far as I'm concerned.
• Long handle 3/8" ratchet with swivel head, 6" extension and short 8mm allen socket was the trick to get to the tight spot they put the cap screws. 8" extension will be OK, but 10" will be too much. Bottom one from underneath the truck and top one from the engine compartment on the passenger side. EasyPeasey (HAH!). Watch those vacuum lines ;-).
• I didn't take the down pipe(s) loose either. Manual probably says that to maximize working room, but I can't see that it would help. Btw, do this job on a cold engine!
• Follow the disassembly/reassembly order on the RAVE page (omitting front pipe). It is exactly right.
• Good luck with a torque wrench. Just not enough room anywhere. I just put a good tightening on it like I was taught...felt like 32 ft-lbs to me! I'll double check it at the next oil change.

Please remember to do this with the battery disconnected! I disconnect both leads even though the RAVE says you only need do the negative.

I think the starter was factory OEM. It had the Land Rover emblem stamped beside the Bosch trademark. Thinking of rebuilding it. It is only a $24 core refund.
I got my rebuild to drop in from Autozone, too! It was a Bosch (luck that...could've just as easily been a delco). Boy! What a difference in turning over the engine!
I've been watching a serious battery drain, even swapped the battery for one of my spares once. The bad starter was the culprit. First time I have seen that, but I recommend watch for this additional indication (battery drain combined with slow starter performance). If your battery tests good, check the alternator 1st and the starter next. Hey, odd but true!
If someone can explain it, chime in. Only thing I could think of was starter stator windings were internally shorted and provided a current path. Never killed my battery. Just drained it between starts...noticeable when I parked the truck for a few days.

I highly recommend this thread for a spot in the sticky list.