Going to look at a '01 DII SE tomorrow with 58k
#31
Great advice to the OP. I have a 2000 and had to find an 8mm wrench and lay in the muck before I intended to get dirty last weekend to engage the CDL; then again to turn it off. The linkage is a one and done solution.
#34
#36
It would have a six digit odometer so it would say 158 if it had 158,000 on it. More likely is a BCU/ECU and gauge cluster swap. I'd want to see a carfax on the VIN.
Also why would anyone have all that work done at a dealer? That would be over $10k... The only possible scenario is that it was owned by a little old lady who traded in at a dealer on a new RR when she saw the amount of work it needed, a tech bought the truck and did the work himself.
Ask many questions on this one.
Also why would anyone have all that work done at a dealer? That would be over $10k... The only possible scenario is that it was owned by a little old lady who traded in at a dealer on a new RR when she saw the amount of work it needed, a tech bought the truck and did the work himself.
Ask many questions on this one.
#37
400 mile update
One week and 400 miles later, still runs great and no real hidden issues thus far. Seems to like 194-206F as its temperature range. Highest I saw was 206.8F on the UG, and that was only once. Usually 196-202F. We took a four hour road trip through the mountains from Denver up to Grand Lake, CO and back -- it had no issues.
I have had the three amigos pop up twice, once while braking somewhat hard, and once while just cruising along and not touching the brakes. Amigos always go away after restarting the engine. I ordered a Nanocom Evolution so I can see what the code(s) are causing the amigos and start to fixing it. Looking forward to this as the first significant project.
I also ordered the bolt-on cupholders, a Hayden 2991 viscous fan clutch, a Dorman 620-112 fan blade, and replacement bumper light lenses from a dude on facebook (mine are cracked). Hoping the Hayden/Dorman fan setup will reduce my temps a little bit, although right now I don't really have any reason to worry. Going to order and replace the front driveshaft next. And then the biggest AT KO2s you can fit without a lift. 265/70/R16?
As spares I ordered a crankshaft position sensor and serpentine belt. Any other spares I should have in the truck in case of breakdown?
I'm going to remove the rear lamp guards tomorrow and try to strip and re-paint them. Replacements are $220 so I will see how this works out first. Same for the rear ladder, unless the rust that's on it is reason to get a new one instead. Seems to me like it's just surface rust, but slightly pitted so I'm not sure.
I'd love to repaint the Safety Devices roof rack and OEM brushguard too but I don't know how I would manage that. I've never stripped and painted anything so large. And the brush guard has a dent. Still find it super weird and funny that the only stuff on this truck that's rusted are the factory accessories.
I keep checking for leaks and checking fluid levels. No leaks and no fluid loss. I'm almost worried.
I have had the three amigos pop up twice, once while braking somewhat hard, and once while just cruising along and not touching the brakes. Amigos always go away after restarting the engine. I ordered a Nanocom Evolution so I can see what the code(s) are causing the amigos and start to fixing it. Looking forward to this as the first significant project.
I also ordered the bolt-on cupholders, a Hayden 2991 viscous fan clutch, a Dorman 620-112 fan blade, and replacement bumper light lenses from a dude on facebook (mine are cracked). Hoping the Hayden/Dorman fan setup will reduce my temps a little bit, although right now I don't really have any reason to worry. Going to order and replace the front driveshaft next. And then the biggest AT KO2s you can fit without a lift. 265/70/R16?
As spares I ordered a crankshaft position sensor and serpentine belt. Any other spares I should have in the truck in case of breakdown?
I'm going to remove the rear lamp guards tomorrow and try to strip and re-paint them. Replacements are $220 so I will see how this works out first. Same for the rear ladder, unless the rust that's on it is reason to get a new one instead. Seems to me like it's just surface rust, but slightly pitted so I'm not sure.
I'd love to repaint the Safety Devices roof rack and OEM brushguard too but I don't know how I would manage that. I've never stripped and painted anything so large. And the brush guard has a dent. Still find it super weird and funny that the only stuff on this truck that's rusted are the factory accessories.
I keep checking for leaks and checking fluid levels. No leaks and no fluid loss. I'm almost worried.
Last edited by rtm; 09-03-2018 at 02:20 AM. Reason: clarity
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Quest4ADV (12-10-2018)
#38
The things that can most easily strand a Disco 2 are the CPS and failed Rotoflex (cheap to pick up an emergency spare online). If you ever have to swap out a good Rotoflex for a failed unit, it takes 2 same-size wrenches.
So wrenches, belt, Rotoflex, and CPS will get many a stalled Disco 2 moving again.
You've probably already got a few spare fuses and there are some unused relays that can be moved around if one fails.
^^^ That leaves fuel and battery as the last 2 major causes of being stuck on the side of the road.
With a spare jerrycan and a Jump Box you'll have those covered. Maybe carry some drinking water (can work as coolant in a pinch) and a road flare?
Last edited by No Doubt; 09-03-2018 at 01:37 AM.
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rtm (09-03-2018)
#39
#40
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: St. Clair County, Michigan
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Normally, the thing that ruins a serpentine belt...is a failed idler pulley or tensioner (or ocassionally, waterpump/PS pump/alternator/A/C compressor) Just replace tensioner/idler pulleys and belt...and don't worry about it. If any of the other components fail...having a new belt won't do much for you anyway.
Brian.
Brian.
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rtm (09-03-2018)