Ok, so I got a few questions. Im a pretty compitent mechanic (but not a good speller), but most of my experiance is with rwd sports cars or military vehicaland engine experiance is mainly rotary and carbed at that. This car is not out of my league, just in a different one of the same level.
So heres what I know and see. The ball joints on the front are going out. easy enough there. the tracks for the sun roof seem busted. motor turns, and the window slides if I push it, but its rough and dont go all the way back. I heard the tracks go for around a grand. Im content with pushing them back and forth. need to replace the gas tank filler neck. and I just replaced the brakelight switch.
The engine has a lot of oil leaking from the back of the engine. Looks like the rear main seal. Ill probably take it to the local shop here and have that replaced. Now the thing that is getting me is that the engine runs a little rough, and when I goto start it I have to turn it over twice. first time it just cranks. second time it catchs right away, everytime. Could it be the timings out? or is there some little sensor somewhere that just need to be cleaned up? Also theres a leak somewhere with the powersteering system, ive heard this is common for these vehicals. wheres a good place to start looking there?
Appreciate the help ahead of time. And Ill keep posted as I fix these problems and find others.

 

We need to know the year and mileage.

 

94 161k

 

Rovers leak, end of story. You fix one leak and another pops up.
You can replace your power steering hoses, start with the hose clamps though, they are the weak point, they rust and then allow the hoses to leak..
Power wash the engine and then check for leaks after a couple of days of driving.
As for the starting, most likely the crank sensor, there are only three reasons the GEMS engine will not start, crank sensor being bad, no spark or fuel.
If you are new to Rovers the power steering takes Dexron III, so you can use a ATF stop leak to help slow the PS leak. Just dont use more than half the bottle because it will clog the pump and you will burn it up.
You MUST use premium gas.
Most common reason for the Check Engine Light is bad spark plugs and wires.
DO NOT use a K&N air filter, it will fry your MAF sensor.
When you change the fluids in your axles and transfer case if you use full synthetic you will get better MPG. Same with the engine oil.
These are easy to work on and very reliable but they LOVE attention.
I have a '97 witrh over 172k and it runs like a champ.
You might want to due a tune up and then have the timing adjusted.
http://www.robisonservice.com/servic...er_advice1.asp
A good read to get you well aquainted with the brand.

 

Thanks Spike.
If it where just a leak Id have no problems with it, but this leaves puddles at stop lights. I dont really wanna fill my oil once a week. Ill check out the crank sensor.
appreciate the help

 

Wow, thats a bad leak.
If you switch to a thicker motor oil it will slow the leak until you can get it fixed. When you add use a 20W50.