got my amigo codes.. want to make sure i am doing the right fix
#14
well back to my issues..lol..
The hub seems to have no play in it all. I jacked up the front and there was no wiggle or play in it what so ever.
I pull the connections for the ABS sensor and am showing an open circuit on the right front. (The front left shows about 1000 ohms so i guess i was checking it right.) I traced all the wires to the right hand sensor and they seemed to be ok with no damage to them, so i can only assume the sensor has failed. and with that i ordered a new one yesterday.
As for the shuttle valve what do you guys think is chances of me needing to replace this part from Falcon works (click me) or is it more likely to be fixed by doing option B on this link (click me) "ABS MODULATOR ELECTRICAL FAULT REPAIR"
Perhaps the question i should ask is... should i get the Falcon repair kit before i tear into this ABS unit or is there a way to tell which problem is likely to be before take it all apart? What is the more common problem of the two with the unit?
Again thanks for all the help on this. I'm in a bind as cannot get the Discovery to pass the emissions with all this going on so cannot register it, along with my job right now i only get to work on it at the weekends so really need to get all my ducks in a row before i start to take things apart so i can drive the darn thing!
Cheers
Dave
The hub seems to have no play in it all. I jacked up the front and there was no wiggle or play in it what so ever.
I pull the connections for the ABS sensor and am showing an open circuit on the right front. (The front left shows about 1000 ohms so i guess i was checking it right.) I traced all the wires to the right hand sensor and they seemed to be ok with no damage to them, so i can only assume the sensor has failed. and with that i ordered a new one yesterday.
As for the shuttle valve what do you guys think is chances of me needing to replace this part from Falcon works (click me) or is it more likely to be fixed by doing option B on this link (click me) "ABS MODULATOR ELECTRICAL FAULT REPAIR"
Perhaps the question i should ask is... should i get the Falcon repair kit before i tear into this ABS unit or is there a way to tell which problem is likely to be before take it all apart? What is the more common problem of the two with the unit?
Again thanks for all the help on this. I'm in a bind as cannot get the Discovery to pass the emissions with all this going on so cannot register it, along with my job right now i only get to work on it at the weekends so really need to get all my ducks in a row before i start to take things apart so i can drive the darn thing!
Cheers
Dave
#16
#17
well back to my issues..lol..
The hub seems to have no play in it all. I jacked up the front and there was no wiggle or play in it what so ever.
I pull the connections for the ABS sensor and am showing an open circuit on the right front. (The front left shows about 1000 ohms so i guess i was checking it right.) I traced all the wires to the right hand sensor and they seemed to be ok with no damage to them, so i can only assume the sensor has failed. and with that i ordered a new one yesterday.
As for the shuttle valve what do you guys think is chances of me needing to replace this part from Falcon works (click me) or is it more likely to be fixed by doing option B on this link (click me) "ABS MODULATOR ELECTRICAL FAULT REPAIR"
Perhaps the question i should ask is... should i get the Falcon repair kit before i tear into this ABS unit or is there a way to tell which problem is likely to be before take it all apart? What is the more common problem of the two with the unit?
Again thanks for all the help on this. I'm in a bind as cannot get the Discovery to pass the emissions with all this going on so cannot register it, along with my job right now i only get to work on it at the weekends so really need to get all my ducks in a row before i start to take things apart so i can drive the darn thing!
Cheers
Dave
The hub seems to have no play in it all. I jacked up the front and there was no wiggle or play in it what so ever.
I pull the connections for the ABS sensor and am showing an open circuit on the right front. (The front left shows about 1000 ohms so i guess i was checking it right.) I traced all the wires to the right hand sensor and they seemed to be ok with no damage to them, so i can only assume the sensor has failed. and with that i ordered a new one yesterday.
As for the shuttle valve what do you guys think is chances of me needing to replace this part from Falcon works (click me) or is it more likely to be fixed by doing option B on this link (click me) "ABS MODULATOR ELECTRICAL FAULT REPAIR"
Perhaps the question i should ask is... should i get the Falcon repair kit before i tear into this ABS unit or is there a way to tell which problem is likely to be before take it all apart? What is the more common problem of the two with the unit?
Again thanks for all the help on this. I'm in a bind as cannot get the Discovery to pass the emissions with all this going on so cannot register it, along with my job right now i only get to work on it at the weekends so really need to get all my ducks in a row before i start to take things apart so i can drive the darn thing!
Cheers
Dave
At any rate I'm experiencing a similar thing with an sensor fault and I'm wondering if your sensor replacement fixed it for you or you had to go with a new hub.
#18
The ohms range is 950-1100, I checked both of my front sensors they were 1000 oms and then I checked a new rear sensor, it was 1050 ohms
http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.ph...id=5&Itemid=63
Willie
http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.ph...id=5&Itemid=63
Willie
#19
I went with a new sensor and it ran great for a month, then the sensor on the other side failed (which would make sense, original 15 year old ones) so i just orderd that one from a guy in Europe of ebay. I managed to get the straight "plug in" replacement ones both time that just plug straight into the harness, not the ones you have to wire to the Slabs directly.
The job is not too hard at all provided your rotors are not seized onto the hubs as mine were. You pull the wheel, remove the disk and remove the one screw holding the senor in place. pop the new one in and your good to go. 2 hours tops.. 30 min if it all goes well.
Dave
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