My only vehicle, a D2 w/ 58k that I have owned for one year has all the symptoms of a dropped liner/cracked block. I foolishly attempted to bandage the bullet wound by listening to the dealer and having them run K&W ceramic block sealant through the coolant system. I did get 6k mi out of the truck by doing so but the issue of course reared its head again and the truck has been parked for 3 months due to pressure leaking into the coolant system, causing a pressure leak at the coolant reservoir cap.

I am on the cusp of pulling the trigger and buying a GPR 4.0 'Long Block Plus' from Mike at Great Plains Rovers but thought I would field your suggestions before I make the absurd leap of spending twice the value of what the truck is worth on fixing it. Also I am going to be safe and replace the radiator w/ a genuine LR rad, a genuine LR 180deg thermostat and have the mechanic see if the heater core needs to be replaced (before the debacle of removing the entire dash to replace it) and maybe even new hoses too all because of the block sealant that was run through the system. I don't want debris from that stuff running through my new engine.

I'm also going to install an ultraguage and wonder if I should install another temp sensor somewhere other than the location it is currently located and an oil pressure gauge in order to accurately monitor what will in the end, be my $12k investment.

Should I opt to run Dexcool or Green coolant in the system? I've heard so many differing opinions on this its difficult to judge what is best. I checked my vicous fan clutch, it fells like peanut butter somewhat when I spin it with the truck off so I guess its ok then? What am I forgetting to check on? It would be nice to address any and all issues with the engine compartment empty before the new one is dropped in. Any other suggestions?

My finger is nervously shaking on the trigger. Purchasing Mike's flange lined engine w/ARP bolts, perf cam, and ceramic slurry seems to be the best way to go if you are going to have a Disco II. The price tag seems to be the only reason more people don't go this route. It is very large expense for an 11 yr old truck that is sure to have other issues down the road but I love my Rover and want to do this right and take care of it for years of enjoyment to come.

 

First, don't run Dexcool. It will gunk up your new engine and radiator. The people who defend Dexcool still admit that it gunks everything up if there's air in the system. It's garbage. Look at it this way - why risk gunking up your new motor with Dexcool?

I'd flush the heater core and leave it. That's a whole separate job from everything else you've mentioned, so I'd wait til it's necessary.

You may want to get a 4.6 instead of a 4.0. More power and torque. I think you'll hae to get the computer reprogrammed, though.

No question, the expense is why most people don't buy aftermarket motors. The only question is whether you'll get $12k worth of use out of the truck. If you plan to keep driving it for several more years, it's definitely worth doing.

 

Thanks dr. mordo. Of everything I have heard in person, read here and the experiences that I have had with it, it seems foolish to ever use dexcool again.

I thought about going 'upgrading' to a 4.6 but I decided against it knowing that my 4.0 sucks enough premium gas as it is. I'm hoping there is a slight uptick in hp w/ the stage 2 camshaft that GPR puts in their rebulds. If not, I'll be happy. Plus there is no core fee w/ GPR if I'm just swapping 4.0 for 4.0.

Anything else I should be considering before I do this???

 

Have you talked with Steve at CannibalV8? There was a thread a while back, and it seemed that the member was really satisfied with the swap. Hell I was even thinking about going with them.

 

GPR also gives you a 3-year warranty

 

Am I the only one who thought that it was a bit strange that two dudes who never post showed up to tell us how much they love Cannibal?

I felt like it was pure spam.

In terms of the 4.0 vs 4.6, I see your point. Especially the core charge part.

 

I didn't give it much thought but now that you say it... I also didn't think that much about going down that route while I was reading the thread. I already had the "I should do a Diesel conversion idea" in the back of my head.

I'd go with the 4.0 even if I was replacing a 4.6. I think the 4.0's are solid, I've never ever had a problem with one at least.

 

My engine was done by GPR about 6 months ago (DII with 46k at the time). Been running great.

 

off topic: I cringe at, the sight of your avatar. still have flashbacks of getting hit in the temple by one of those dam* things

 

Back when toys played an important role in evolution