I was doing some reading and came across a customer review that mentioned that GBR is no longer in business? http://greenrovers.com/green/?p=2858.../green/?p=2858 This bums me out. I thought I heard someone from the forum suggesting others to buy one of the GBR engines - recently. From what I gathered through many forum posts and customer reviews GBR had the best warranty on the market for rebuilt 4.6 engines and the best reviews plus the option Turner camshaft upgrade.

Ive heard many good and a handful of bad things about Cannibal V8 so what other options do we have then? Just Turner?

Soon Im going to get my engine ticking diagnosed once and for all. Tired of all the "well he said its this, but they said its that..." and I need to know if my engine is in fact on its way out or just needs some updates such as new lifters. My mechanic advised that before I spend the $$$$ on updating the cooling system, oil pump and head gaskets, that I should first have the engine tested for low pressure and slipped sleeves and be prepared for a backup plan should the engine have the slipped sleeve.

My drive across country in my D2 has be postpone thanks in part to Uncle Sam and the IRS (owe some taxes) so this may be a good time to save up for a bigger investment such as an engine.

PS: If anybody has a rebuilt 4.6 engine or a dam well cared for 4.6 from a parts truck please let me know and in the next few months maybe I will buy it from you. Im thinking about the P38 engine but its just an option.

 

Even if it is a slipped sleeve, isn't the worst that can happen embarrassment at the McFood drive window?

Unless you have a cracked something, then you havn't really got anything to fix (sleeve excepted)

Of course, I'm only adding to the he said, she said scene

Did you try the hose pipe trick?

180 thermostat, water wetter etc?

I have close to 100k on my 04. Orig HG. Waiting for something. Just something.

And. Bummer about your trip. That was for work? Wanna sell that rack?

 

Rack is not for sale, hard enough finding one with a couple bends in it let a new one so Ill be keeping mine ^^ and yup see my signature. Already have the 180 thermostat. Replaced the old one several months ago, temps dropped and the ticking went away completely, then a few months ago I did a engine flush and ever since the ticking has been back. Lots of people think ticking and slipped sleeve means the engine is about to die so for my sake I want to get it checked out and see what my options are. Shame about GBR though.

 

Knew you wouldn't be selling the rack.

Those temps are pretty much mine. Not heard of much lower.

And now with the hose pipe trick, it goes away temporarily?

Cos, getting it diagnosed, just means someone's opinon on whether the engine is indeed "on its way out". If the slipped sleeve is confirmed.

And opinions are like a** holes. Everyone has one.

mine? I'd run it til it 'had' to be looked at.

 

I feel like you keep writing GBR and not GPR... GBR is still very much in business.

 

How are they going to diagnose a slipped liner without tearing it down?

 

Yeah you got me there. I ment GPR but mixed it up with GBR. Yes the only way to properly diagnose the engine is to take it apart. I want the oil pressure tested than the liners examined: if my liners were bad I would have to do something weather that be rebuild the engine and get top hat liners or swap out. Ive never heard of someone pushing en engine that had slipped liners but who knows.

 

Rovermastertech has an interesting way to diagnose.

Get the engine up to temp and use a garden hose to water down one side of the block then the other.

If they ticking stops, the aluminum has shrunk from the cold water and grabbed the moving sleeve.

Pretty simple/elegent technique. I have never tried it, but makes sense.

 

dont try it, it is not a diagnosis.
all that means is that you have suddenly lower the the block temp.
Spraying cold water on a hot aluminum block is never a good thing, no matter how much BS they have after their name.

if you go way way back in the posts you will see that dealers actually use to use this test, until they found out it was doing more damage than good. jmho

 

^ This. While it might work you could do damage if the block is really hot and the water is really cold. The only accurate way to tell is to pull the heads and inspect the sleeves and the head surface. If any sleeves are lower or higher than the block deck then they have moved, or you will see a ring pounded into the head and the gasket chewed up. I wouldn't get all worried yet though, it could be in the top end as was my case. If doing the head gaskets dont make my mistake, use ARP studs. I believe my block cracked using stretch bolts.