..:: The H4 HALOGEN BULB UPGRADE Situation ::..
Hello Roverers!
While tackling with other issues posted in different posts, DRIVER SIDE LOW BEAM on my 2002 DISCOVERY S2 SE has died, but before grabbing the usual Sylvania Silverstar H4 Halogen bulb, I was looking into maybe upgrading to LED bulbs; one that will just require a bulb swap with no further installations or system tweaking; any suggestions? if no option available, then any suggestion for a better H4 halogen bulb than the Sylvania Silverstar?
Thanks again! ;-]#
While tackling with other issues posted in different posts, DRIVER SIDE LOW BEAM on my 2002 DISCOVERY S2 SE has died, but before grabbing the usual Sylvania Silverstar H4 Halogen bulb, I was looking into maybe upgrading to LED bulbs; one that will just require a bulb swap with no further installations or system tweaking; any suggestions? if no option available, then any suggestion for a better H4 halogen bulb than the Sylvania Silverstar?
Thanks again! ;-]#
I have a set of Auxbeam Eagles installed based on the recommendation of another forum member, but I think I'm going to switch back to halogens. The beam pattern seems to be good and they illuminate great, almost too good- I've got the heated windshield in my truck and the reflections off signage through the filaments is really noticeable at night. The color temperature is definitely "cooler" than the halogens, not quite blue but not quite white either, somewhere in the middle. Mostly though, I just am terrified of being that guy in a lifted SUV blinding others with bright lights, despite them being aimed well. I've got a set of halogen auxiliary driving lights on the brush bar so throwing enough light isn't a problem with my high beams on and my fog lights are also halogen so mixing the color temperatures on forward facing lights is weird to me. Maybe I'm just getting old... I actually have a set of halogens bought and ready in reinstall, but I just haven't done it yet.
I have Auxbeam P20's in both high and low beams. https://auxbeam.com/products/spu00174?sscid=b1k7_13l547
No scatter issues, and I haven't noticed any increase in the visibility of the heated windscreen wires. It can be a bit of an exercise to get them into the headlight housing but they will fit if you're careful.
I have the Rover brush bar on my truck which makes it difficult to change the headlights, so I wanted something that would last longer than halogens.
Next thing will be to put yellow-tint halogens in the fog lights.
No scatter issues, and I haven't noticed any increase in the visibility of the heated windscreen wires. It can be a bit of an exercise to get them into the headlight housing but they will fit if you're careful.
I have the Rover brush bar on my truck which makes it difficult to change the headlights, so I wanted something that would last longer than halogens.
Next thing will be to put yellow-tint halogens in the fog lights.
I have a set of Auxbeam Eagles installed based on the recommendation of another forum member, but I think I'm going to switch back to halogens. The beam pattern seems to be good and they illuminate great, almost too good- I've got the heated windshield in my truck and the reflections off signage through the filaments is really noticeable at night. The color temperature is definitely "cooler" than the halogens, not quite blue but not quite white either, somewhere in the middle. Mostly though, I just am terrified of being that guy in a lifted SUV blinding others with bright lights, despite them being aimed well. I've got a set of halogen auxiliary driving lights on the brush bar so throwing enough light isn't a problem with my high beams on and my fog lights are also halogen so mixing the color temperatures on forward facing lights is weird to me. Maybe I'm just getting old... I actually have a set of halogens bought and ready in reinstall, but I just haven't done it yet.
I don't think Auxbeam use the Eagle name any more.
They had a stem shape that looked like a bird: see https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e2/#post746411
They had a stem shape that looked like a bird: see https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e2/#post746411
I have Auxbeam P20's in both high and low beams. https://auxbeam.com/products/spu00174?sscid=b1k7_13l547
No scatter issues, and I haven't noticed any increase in the visibility of the heated windscreen wires. It can be a bit of an exercise to get them into the headlight housing but they will fit if you're careful.
I have the Rover brush bar on my truck which makes it difficult to change the headlights, so I wanted something that would last longer than halogens.
Next thing will be to put yellow-tint halogens in the fog lights.
No scatter issues, and I haven't noticed any increase in the visibility of the heated windscreen wires. It can be a bit of an exercise to get them into the headlight housing but they will fit if you're careful.
I have the Rover brush bar on my truck which makes it difficult to change the headlights, so I wanted something that would last longer than halogens.
Next thing will be to put yellow-tint halogens in the fog lights.
I don't think Auxbeam use the Eagle name any more.
They had a stem shape that looked like a bird: see https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e2/#post746411
They had a stem shape that looked like a bird: see https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e2/#post746411
I don't know what goes into a 2002, but it's H7 for 2003-04.
I also don't remember what the assembly is like on the pre-facelift trucks, so I don't know for sure whether the Auxbeams would fit. For my truck, I was able to fit the bulb, its heatsink, and its connector wire inside the regular housing using the stock cap. If necessary, it's possible to pull the bulb out of its mounting plate and rotate it 180 degrees; one direction will have more room for the wire than the other. It's also possible to undo a single screw on the headlight assembly to release the bulb retaining clip, drop the bulb in place, thread the wire into position, and then reinstall the screw. All pretty self-explanatory when you have the headlight assembly on your lap in front of you.
I also don't remember what the assembly is like on the pre-facelift trucks, so I don't know for sure whether the Auxbeams would fit. For my truck, I was able to fit the bulb, its heatsink, and its connector wire inside the regular housing using the stock cap. If necessary, it's possible to pull the bulb out of its mounting plate and rotate it 180 degrees; one direction will have more room for the wire than the other. It's also possible to undo a single screw on the headlight assembly to release the bulb retaining clip, drop the bulb in place, thread the wire into position, and then reinstall the screw. All pretty self-explanatory when you have the headlight assembly on your lap in front of you.
I don't know what goes into a 2002, but it's H7 for 2003-04.
I also don't remember what the assembly is like on the pre-facelift trucks, so I don't know for sure whether the Auxbeams would fit. For my truck, I was able to fit the bulb, its heatsink, and its connector wire inside the regular housing using the stock cap. If necessary, it's possible to pull the bulb out of its mounting plate and rotate it 180 degrees; one direction will have more room for the wire than the other. It's also possible to undo a single screw on the headlight assembly to release the bulb retaining clip, drop the bulb in place, thread the wire into position, and then reinstall the screw. All pretty self-explanatory when you have the headlight assembly on your lap in front of you.
I also don't remember what the assembly is like on the pre-facelift trucks, so I don't know for sure whether the Auxbeams would fit. For my truck, I was able to fit the bulb, its heatsink, and its connector wire inside the regular housing using the stock cap. If necessary, it's possible to pull the bulb out of its mounting plate and rotate it 180 degrees; one direction will have more room for the wire than the other. It's also possible to undo a single screw on the headlight assembly to release the bulb retaining clip, drop the bulb in place, thread the wire into position, and then reinstall the screw. All pretty self-explanatory when you have the headlight assembly on your lap in front of you.
I had the greatest results with Hikari inside projector beam lamps (not a Rover, but relevant to '03-'04 D2). For my D1, I needed H4's that did not have a big **** on the back because there is no room for it. I bought Fahren Termitors -- they look to be some fly-by-night special on Amazon. They are far brighter than Silverstars. There is no comparison. The beam pattern and cutoff isn't especially great, but my D1 headlights are partly responsible for that. I can't say how long they will last. The Hikari in my other car have lasted much longer than Silverstars would have (I ran through several high-end halogens in that car and even tried HID, the Hikari are the best). I was careful to adjust my headlamp aim after installing the LED's. I have a nominally 3" lift so it can be problematic. My wife's car is a late model with fancy LED lamps that move with the steering. They're the highest rated by the NHTSA and IIHS. I found a level spot where I could aim them at a wall about 50 yards in front. Because of the difference in height, the garage door from the end of the driveway is not going to work. Then I parked the Land Rover there and matched the aim point and the vertical beam cutoff. Correct aim and pattern is more important than brightness or color.
Last edited by nathanb; Nov 29, 2023 at 02:25 PM.


