Head Bolt torque spec: Disco2
#31
This is a little funny, is this thread going down that same path as “that guy” who traveled down hill with no gas for like 10 miles or somethin like that?
Just a little tech advice from and engineer, you can set a bolt to 100lbfts and leave it, however a TTY bolt can be set to 100lbfts and rotated further to a degree and retain a torque value and it is going to be different than your standard “set it and leave it bolt” so to speak.
I agree to removing the head bolts and retorque.
Just a little tech advice from and engineer, you can set a bolt to 100lbfts and leave it, however a TTY bolt can be set to 100lbfts and rotated further to a degree and retain a torque value and it is going to be different than your standard “set it and leave it bolt” so to speak.
I agree to removing the head bolts and retorque.
#32
Yeah 7 mile downhill pass in NV with no fuel, and then they complained it wouldn't stop lol. Truly a classic
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Nosugar0carbs (04-23-2020)
#34
i agree! Add clowns who have absolutely zero ability to comprehend the English language should really keep their mouths shut....maybe those replying here should get the message.
#35
#36
your brakes aren’t controlled by your fuel system....but hey thanks for the completely irrelevant straw man argument.
#37
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#38
i agree!
Finally this is the smartest thing you've said in ANY post so far.
Keep up the progress and GOOD LUCK to you!
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shanechevelle (04-23-2020)
#39
- If we assume the bolts have still not been properly stretched should he remove them and complete the process again using what he learned doing the passenger side?
- Should he remove the bolts and complete the process again using 10 new TTY bolts?
- Should he call it a day and hope for the best with the TTY bolts torqued to 80 lb.ft.?
It's hard to follow the OP's timeline because his narrative jumps around all over the place. It doesn't sound like the bolts were initially stretched at all, but now they have been. Improperly, but stretched nonetheless. And that's where the issue lies. TTY bolts aren't just about a final torque -- which is why you aren't given one with the set -- but about the elasticity of the steel as well as how tight they are. This is part of why you can't re-use them. If you just tighten to a specified torque instead of going through a timed, staged process, the elasticity is compromised and the bolts won't retain the correct torque under a variety of temperature conditions. (Re-using TTY bolts to a single specific torque is how I cracked the block on an Audi engine many years ago.)
That said, I'm not convinced that these engines -- if well maintained and optimally cooled -- really need to have such critical attention paid to the head bolt torques. However, as we all know, the cooling system on these engines leaves a bit to be desired, so temperatures can often vary quite a bit. If the engine develops hot spots and the block/head interface surfaces start warping even slightly, all bets are likely off.
Removing the bolts and re-doing the sequence would be optimal, but expensive and annoying. The head gaskets would also need to be replaced because they usually crush to conform to the head and block surfaces.
Leaving the bolts at their current 80lb.f will probably work, for a while at least. Provided that the cooling system is well maintained. Unlikely that the gaskets will last 50k miles though.
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