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Head Gasket Job

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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 03:42 PM
  #1  
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Default Head Gasket Job

Hello...

Getting ready to do a Head Gasket job...

Wanted to know if anyone had a diagram of the parts and where they go, I have the kit, but wanted to know if someone had a file or explanation...

Time frame, How long did it take you?

Did you replace the valve seals? Did you check the tappets? if so, what method did you use?

I have the head bolt set, new thermostat, enhaust gaskets..what else do you recommend?

Did you use the RAVE? Was it sufficient?

Anyone have any helpful tips?

TIA !
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 04:36 PM
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Shops get 12 - 15 hours for the job. Determined DIY, with few re-tasking assignments from SWMBO, can generally do in two weekends, with machine shop inbetween, let them do the valve seals (come with your kit) while they skim the heads for flatness (spec is 0.002 inch, printer paper is 0.0038 thick). You'll want the RAVE. Has exploded diagrams, overhaul section, info for basic mechanic to undertake this, etc. Plenty of posts for this, including photos of all the gory details.

However, if you have never taken a wrench to a motor this might not be the best first timer's task. Miles on engine? Reason for HG?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 05:16 PM
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Just did head gaskets on the Discovery II in a parking lot.
The weather was good.

I did not do a write up yet.

But --

Here are some pictures to look at.

Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream

Took a week.
Three hours after work in the dark- taking it apart
two days during the weekend - full days.
One day each to get each head off, cleaned and back on.
About 3 more days to put the rest together.

Maybe if I did another one now - it may go faster.
I used a car battery and an inverter and a light for power.
No air tools, no drills.

I did not resurface the heads.
I did not even check it for warp.
Just flipped it back on with a new gaskets.

The heads look like they were changed before - at least one did.
One needed attention, the other was fine for the while.
But, I did it anyway.

Do not use made in China gaskets.

Here is a write up about Discovery I too.
Sort of similar once you get the top of the engine off

1997 Land Rover replace catalytic converter and head gaskets

regards,
Jeff
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 05:28 PM
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My concern for your doing a head gasket replacement are your questions, everything you have asked is common place. Do you have a Rave or shop manual, do you have a machine shop the can handle the heads and where are you buying your parts from, as far as that goes, what will you be replacing?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Shops get 12 - 15 hours for the job. Determined DIY, with few re-tasking assignments from SWMBO, can generally do in two weekends, with machine shop inbetween, let them do the valve seals (come with your kit) while they skim the heads for flatness (spec is 0.002 inch, printer paper is 0.0038 thick). You'll want the RAVE. Has exploded diagrams, overhaul section, info for basic mechanic to undertake this, etc. Plenty of posts for this, including photos of all the gory details.

However, if you have never taken a wrench to a motor this might not be the best first timer's task. Miles on engine? Reason for HG?
Couple reasons....

Wires and plugs need to be changed...(dumb excuse I know...but since I'll have it apart...)

I am getting some oil burn on the drivers bank.

Antifreeze is going somewhere...I am bleeding it every week.

My wife says she is finding coolant in the oil, I havent seen it yet, but I dont check it every 3 days like she does.

No Antifreeze puddle and no smell of it out the exhaust.

I do have a slight oil leak out the oil pan gasket.

Since I am ripping it apart, I am going to replace the oil pump that I didnt replace few months ago when I did the timing.

Cracked exhaust manifold

Leaking valve cover gasket, not bad but since I will have it apart...

Miles 133,000 2001

Head gasket kit came from Lucky 8, inc bolts, chose lucky since he had free shipping.

I have new thermostat as well.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
My concern for your doing a head gasket replacement are your questions, everything you have asked is common place. Do you have a Rave or shop manual, do you have a machine shop the can handle the heads and where are you buying your parts from, as far as that goes, what will you be replacing?
My questions...

While they are possibly commonplace...

I am a bit ocd...my reason for asking where all the parts go for the kit was to identify them before I rip stuff apart.

I have the rave, I have mitchell on demand, I have chilton (dont use the Chilton), a Rover mechanic friend that could do it for me, and I even have a little auto repair section in AKO (army knowledge online.mil) that I can find the answers too...

I hate having a gasket left over, I hate NOT knowing where the parts go before it comes apart. If I can find a picture or diagram of the internals BEFORE I take it apart, it helps with the whole R/R...

While this is my first Rover, growing up in the resto shop and a mechanic in the military, this isnt my first head job.

You could have a tappet in a rover, and you can have a tappet in a FIAT, but they arent the same tappet not do they have the same measurement or are they located in the same place...knowing how to replace a tappet in a Fiat does not mean I know the whole deal about the tappets in the Rover and replacing them, REALLY replacing them correctly and covering all the bases, is worth asking some people that have done the change some questions. Why should I rely on the parts I take off to see how they go together? Why cant I know before I take a wrench to it?

Questions are free...replacing parts again is not. I absolutely hate mistakes.

You told me about the upper rad hose being replaced since I have the wrong one, I most likely would have not known that if I hadnt called...

And another note, a mechanic the shop hired shaved the heads on a Chrysler van...but he didnt shave the intake...it didnt run right until the intake was shaved and brought back into specs...While I dont mind working on it, the shop cant afford it...

If it calls for 25 ft/lbs, it gets 25, not 24, not 26.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 07:16 PM
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My best method was numbered/ID'ed ziplock baggies, with the bolts, gaskets, o-rings from each step.
Then on reinstall just work backwards from the highest number.

Have worries when there is a bag left.
I bet the rover gods are giggling, "He's worried about that."
Good luck with it. Burn many candles, and a lamb on the hood never hurts.
I skipped the lamb, and still have a paperweight.
BUT DAMIT! IT WILL RUN ONE DAY! I hope, shh! They might be listening.
 
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