Head gasket job Questions
I like to wrap wires in dry vinyl tape first so that nothing sticky is on the wires, then follow it up with Tesa wiring loom tape (Tesa makes many different styles) for small bundles of wire, and/or silicone self-fusing tape for bulkier wires. I redid the entire engine harness that way. I also separated that 3 way junction w/ the alternator/starter cables into separate runs for my dual batt setup, and for easier maintenance.
This is one of the styles of the Tesa tape: https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Wire-Loo...ne+wiring+tape
This is one of the styles of the Tesa tape: https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Wire-Loo...ne+wiring+tape
I broke up that junction of wires, because it did not follow the route that appears to be on the cooling pipes. I’m kind of shocked it came from the factory like that. Seems unnecessarily difficult to discern what is what.
Last edited by CollieRover; Apr 23, 2018 at 09:19 PM.
I'll put it back on. I do want to transplant the engine when this body rusts out.
TReK
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 3,387
Likes: 488
The rear isn't on my 04, and I'm not sure that any came with front and rear.
I think Best4x4 said(my appologies if he didn't)that adding another from a junkyard for the rear was a good lifting option.
I removed the heads before removing my engine, so I used old head bolts at the 4 corners of the block.
Going back, the heads and lower intake will be on.
My Dad made me a mounting plate with a loop that bolts to the lower intake using shorter bolts than the long ones for the upper intake(will post pic later when I get home).
Basically, it's just like a long carburetor plate for lifting engines.
If you can't fabricate your own, you can buy a carb lifting plate from Summit or ebay for about $15, and drill new holes in it.
I think Best4x4 said(my appologies if he didn't)that adding another from a junkyard for the rear was a good lifting option.
I removed the heads before removing my engine, so I used old head bolts at the 4 corners of the block.
Going back, the heads and lower intake will be on.
My Dad made me a mounting plate with a loop that bolts to the lower intake using shorter bolts than the long ones for the upper intake(will post pic later when I get home).
Basically, it's just like a long carburetor plate for lifting engines.
If you can't fabricate your own, you can buy a carb lifting plate from Summit or ebay for about $15, and drill new holes in it.
Last edited by Sixpack577; Apr 24, 2018 at 10:06 AM.
I believe that the flow of air from the crankcase was reversed due to this nastiness. This is the interior plate that sits below the separator. I took out the separator, destroyed it in the process, and that was clear, because I don't think Air was getting to it anymore.
I got some Permatex Gasket Prep, something like the stuff in the AB Video that he uses on the lower intake gasket, when dismantling I noticed that I did not get the metal gasket to seal well when I did my coilpack last summer.
Is it a good idea to use the gasket prep on the metal gasket between the intake manifolds, or is there a trick to seating that?
Is it a good idea to use the gasket prep on the metal gasket between the intake manifolds, or is there a trick to seating that?
TReK
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 3,387
Likes: 488
When I did lifters, pushrods, oil pump, before removing my engine for a rebuild, I had a missfire with no codes(no misfire prior to replacing those parts).
After a couple days of trying to get a code, finally one for the mass air. But, I could hear what sounded like an air leak somewhere around the lower intake.
Regardless, the ticking was still there, so I pulled the engine, and found cam, crank, and rod bearings worn.
Still, I suspected an air leak between the heads and lower intake.
I Will definately be putting black rtv on both sides of the intake to head gaskets.
It's not common to do so, but it can't do any harm.
Considering that if there was a small dried bead of rtv pushed out of one of the gaskets, it would be inline where the air/fuel mix is drawn in.
If and when that rtv is sucked into the combustion chamber, it'll just burn up, and any small solid left would just blow through the exhaust.
After a couple days of trying to get a code, finally one for the mass air. But, I could hear what sounded like an air leak somewhere around the lower intake.
Regardless, the ticking was still there, so I pulled the engine, and found cam, crank, and rod bearings worn.
Still, I suspected an air leak between the heads and lower intake.
I Will definately be putting black rtv on both sides of the intake to head gaskets.
It's not common to do so, but it can't do any harm.
Considering that if there was a small dried bead of rtv pushed out of one of the gaskets, it would be inline where the air/fuel mix is drawn in.
If and when that rtv is sucked into the combustion chamber, it'll just burn up, and any small solid left would just blow through the exhaust.
Last edited by Sixpack577; Apr 26, 2018 at 12:26 PM.
