You can also get oil leaking on either end of the valley pan gasket where the metal plates bolt to the block via 1 bolt each. Those rubber seals harden over time and can start to seep or the RTV which is supposed to be on either side of it can also cause a spot to seep from.

 

Coolant leak needs to be dealt with.

 

A quick pressure test with around the home items can be used to test head gasket leaks.

Remove the bleed hole from the coolant line. Nearly any hand actuated pressure pump with gauge reading 0 to 20 psi can be used so long as you can get creative to Adapt it.. A bike pump works with a small float pump nozzle adapter. I use a vacuum/pump designed to test small engine carburetors and 2 cycle crank cases.

I use some tygon fuel hose to make a snug fit into the bleeder hole to seal.

I had a noticeable leak (drip) once I hit about 15 psi. Now that I know rovers better and it takes 5 min to set up I wouldnt buy another without testing first. Even if it didn't leak I'd let it sit a good 20 min or so to rule out a slow leak. Stop at 18psi.


My dumb self put on new valve cover gaskets then 2 weeks later the head gasket went from small manageable leak to a broken levy.

I was hoping she'd milk it a year or so but I already had the new headgasket kit and head studs on hand anticipating such an event

 

Closing out the thread - was indeed a leaking (subtle) head gasket. New head gasket, no leaks!