Hi everyone. I just finished changing my head gaskets and thought I would post about the experience. Most of this stuff I found by searching this forum and asking questions. I never would have made it through without all of your help!

It takes about 2-3 days to complete the job for an average DIY'er, including 1 day for machining the heads.

Along with a good set of tools, you will need:

- A set of swivel impact sockets from harbour freight in metric
- Torque wrench
- 9mm hex (allen) wrench for the SAI injectors in the heads
- 8mm 12-point socket for the valve covers (3/8 or 1/4 inch drive, 1/2 inch is too big)
- 12mm 12-point socket for the exhaust manifold
- A 36mm box wrench from Northern Tools for the viscous fan (put wrench on fan and whack it with a hammer TO THE LEFT to loosen)
- RTV sealant for the valley pan gasket
- Gasket set from your favorite parts supplier - I used Atlantic British
- New head bolts - you cannot use the old ones
- Intake / Carb cleaner for cleaning surfaces
- Metric bolt extractors (kinda like carrying a gun...you hope you never have to use it, but if you ever need one you have it)
- 3 feet of 5/16 hose if you want to bypass the throttle body heater

Lessons learned:

- This is a GREAT time to bypass the throttle body heater if you choose to (EDIT: This is entirely up to you. Please research and use your best judgement) I went to Pep Boys and got 3 feet of 5/16 hose and ran it from the coolant tank to the engine
- I used plastic sandwich bags and labeled them with what bolts were inside and which page / step in the RAVE manual they were from. I put them near each piece I took off. It was amazing how easy putting it back together was and I didn't lose 1 bolt
- Be careful not to lose the small orange gaskets inside the injector plugs. They like to fall out
- Do not throw away the SAI adapters like the RAVE manual says. They are a special order part and they are $50 each. It is much easier to remove the head bolts if you take these off first, but it is possible with a swivel socket if you cannot remove them
- Take your time and read through the RAVE manual prior to starting. Follow every step in the RAVE manual
- Almost everything that had me stumped was already answered on this forum. A quick search and the answer was found
- Be VERY careful when removing the wires from the alternator. The bolt on the back of the alternator can break off if you use too much torque. Ask me how I know...
- Remove what you can from the engine bay to make room, e.g. the vacuum lines, the SAI and the coil pack and spark plug wires. With those removed it's pretty much just an engine and not so intimidating
- I cleaned the tops of the pistons with the carb cleaner and used a shop vac to vaccum everything out as I reinstalled eveything
- My first trip was to the car wash to pressure wash the engine


I have been waiting until the right time to do my heads, and have been reading everything I can on this forum. I will admit that the first night I was ready to call a tow truck and have someone else finish the job. I was up against the new year holiday and needed to get my heads to the machine shop before the long weekend. Once I slept on it I calmed down and tried again in the morning and got them off fine.

I can't tell you how awesome it was to turn the key and have her start on the first crank. I swear she has never run better.

 

I would never bypass the heater. Remember that the vehicle freezes up and as you drive cold air comes in freezing up the throttle plate. if it freezes up while driving it could freeze up in WOT and you wont be able to slow down causing the vehicle to accelerate beyond your control and kill you.

Put it back. even a little leak can be fixed with a new gasket. Don't cut your nose to spite your face. Remember you dont know how cold the throttle plate is getting.

 

Considering that I live in NC and it gets below freezing maybe 2 days a year, I am not concerned. I have had the throttle body bypassed for years with no issues.

 

Yea, i might worry where I'm at(-10 wind chills) but not there.

 

Take many digital pictures of various angle of your engine before taking it apart to do the head job. Three days later the pictures can remind you how to route your hoses and where some plug goes.

 

I found once I got it apart it was really fast to get back together. It was stressful taking it apart but fun putting it together.

To the OP congtrats welcome to the club. Don't get too comfortable.

 

I agree. It is there for a reason.
That being said it is your truck and you can do what you want but remember that if you take ti on vacation here in MI in February you will have problems because it gets cold and we still have high humidity which means anything exposed will get a coating of ice, including your throttle body.

BUT, Humroot, thank you for posting these great tips.

 

First time I pulled out a 06 RR SC engine to do a bedpan leak I had to remove the the frt bumper and everything else to pull out the engine. And yes I had lots of pictures to remember where everything went on that thing.

I had to take the motor out and pull it completely apart and reseal the bottom end. Not the kind thing a DIYer might want to try. Especially timing everything.