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Ok so I began cleaning gasket surfaces, and I got a couple of questions, is this clean enough for reinstall? I know everything's aluminum and I really can't use heavy tools just trying to get an idea before I touch the heads. Also, I lost this o ring on the heater pipe to manifold, any chance RTV would work there?
Make sure you pull the fuel rail and replace the o-rings for the injectors. They should be in your kit. They just pull out but can be a little tough. Hit the new ones with a little vaseline and reinstall.
With the exhaust ports enlargened to the size of the gasket the throttle response on the highway is like having a new car. Passing at 70mph plus is now easy. The manifolds restrict the already restrictive head exhaust ports by mm's.
A Dremel will do it, but a good Die Grinder will do it much faster. I used a Makita, but you could get a Chicago Electric to do it, I just did not have a Harbor Freight store near me. I got a carbide bit set that I was too nervous to risk on the head, but it really did a nice job on the manifolds. There are youtube videos on the process, and they are very helpful. You can get sandpaper kits at Harbor Freight, or Summit Racing. But a Dremel will do it, it will just take a while.!
That's pretty neat!
Originally Posted by CollieRover
And No Doubt, considering your ability to wrench removing and porting the manifolds could be done in a day!
Oh God no. I'm super slow. Sometimes maybe I get motivated enough to knock out a project.
I used WD-40 plastic scraping tools and green scotch brite. I have read scotch brite is a no no, but I haven’t noticed illeffects, but I was meticulous about cleaning the cylinders walls while cleaning.
My machine shop shop told me to not clean the piston heads as you would introduce carbon to the engine. I had already done one side, skipped the other.
If you you have a dremel, make thread chasers and liberally use brake kleen to get the bolthole free of debris, of course the block holes, but also the holes on the cylinder head as well.
For reassembly you will only need oil for the studs or stretch bolts as they do not pierce any coolant chambers.