Now that it looks I have to do this I am looking at using this kit from Lucky 8, with the ARP stud kit.
Still need to locate a good machine shop to true the heads and do the valve seals.

https://www.lucky8llc.com/collection...et-set-reinz-1

Any known issues with the Victor Reniz head gaskets or better set to use - remembering I am in Canada so you can add 35% to the prices.

As to the ARP studs I am aware of the possible issues, but it is a system I am familiar with. The TTY bolts are not something I have down before and as absolute precision is required I feel more comfortable with studs.

Any specialized tools required around injectors etc ?

It looks pretty straight forward overall, but any gotcha's from other experiences. Exhaust has been off in the last 6 months so that at least is easy.

 

No special tools for injectors.
But you can get a remanufactured Bosch set on ebay from several sellers, $60-$80 U.S.

I used TTY bolts last time, and have on other vehicles...and don't trust them to be consistent, even with an angle guage, especially on an engine with head gasket issues.
I have ARP studs for this build.

 

@Sixpack577 I read on several posts that with the engine in the rear studs need to be put in after the head is in place can you confirm ?

 

Yes, that IS true.
If you look at the engine you can see that the heads sit slightly under the firewall, so you cannot drop them straight down on to all the studs.
Just thread all the studs in by hand, try to put the head on, and you'll see which ones are in the way. And, this will ensure those threads are clean enough, so that you won't have any issues threading them in by hand for final assembly.
I am using studs on an engine that is out, and haven't put studs in with the block in the truck.
But, once you remove your heads, it'll make perfect sense to exactly what you need to do, because you'll see the clearance when you remove the rear bolts on each side.
And, no worries, it doesn't complicate the job any.

 

I used the Victor Reinz kit and ARP studs when I did my 4.6L heads. I liked the Reinz a lot more than the generic kit for my 4.0L that I got from Lucky8, and the studs were much, much easier to work with than the TTY bolts.
Valve stem seals are quite easy to replace yourself, and you can lap the valve and seat surfaces while you're changing them.

 

Thanks @Sixpack577

Hopefully I can rent a shelter cheap locally to keep the rain /snow off me and the disco while I do this.

 

thanks @mollusc very helpful, Now I just need to find a good shop to check the heads, we have a dragstrip /race track in town so hopefully there is one close by.

 

I'm building my engine in my warm garage, but I don't have room for the D2 and the engine crane in there.
We don't get quite as cold as you guys either, but once it's below freezing, it really doesn't matter.
I have to park it in front of the door and roll the crane out to put it in...and I'm going to wait for a Warm day to do that again...just hopefully not as hot as the last time, as it was just over 100f(yes, the umbrella is on the roof, but worked perfectly, lol).
Good luck, and praying you get a few nice days to do it!

 

Parts list happy engine:

Head gasket set
Arp stud Set
Fuel injectors
Oil and Filter
Antifreeze

Anything missing from the happy list ?

Worse case (Block Issue) parts list :

4.6 liter block
Bearings con rod
Main bearings
oil pump
timing chain
camshaft
bearings camshaft
lifters
Piston rings
Pushrods

Anything missing from the worst case list - other than front cover and other gaskets ?

 

Might as well do pushrods too.