It happens to all of us. My daughters 2000 d2 had a head gasket break on the outside..so it was a dry break sounded like a chu chu.... Ran fine. When i pulled the top end off was a nightmare...oil sludge ... The stupid bitch who owed it before didn't take care of it as is the usual story on here. The oil passages where so gunked and blocked on the rockers i had to strip and media blast them and take them apart... was a mess. Got everything all cleaned up ...took forever... and when i fired back up ran like crap... I am having it towed to my land rover shop as..."I have no time to screw with it " as i am busy with work. I imagine i will have them pull the pan and front cover just to make sure.. So don't feel bad... It's only money....

 

If your Disco 2 has an oil cooler (tranny cooler and oil cooler stack on each other), it could be obstructed. You could also have obstructed oil pickup, see attached drawing from RAVE, or that little O ring could be gone and it is sucking air. Oil PSI test (and if fails) drop pan and much may be revealed. Or could be oil filter has doen its job and trapped a ton of gunk. See:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...estions-46975/ for a big filter with low loss.

 

Im in the same boat Vandev, stressed with job, baseball, wifes school, and down to one car, and thats an extended cab ranger with 3 kids.. Two trips any where we go! lol

The good thing is that I have dropped the pan and changed the oil pump gears before so that shouldn't be too bad. The last time I did it was in the snow on my driveway. This tim e I have the garage open. Is there any fixes that I can do to the sai pipe? I've heard of yellow gas line but would that connect to the valve on top?

 

Salvage yard maybe? Dismantler? I know they are pricey if from AB, etc.

 

Probably combination of 2 problems. An oil pump on the way out compounded by
aspiration of debris by the pickup tube ( oil pump ) from the HG job = persistent oil light.
Agree with Savannah, gotta check oil pressure with mechanical gauge ( thru oil
pressure switch ), reference manual for cold and warm pressure for idling and at 2000 RPM.

You could have also blown some debris into pressure switch, so while you have it out (doubt it ), might as well see for completions sake.

Oil light going out at above idling only means that your oil pressure is above 7 PSI, which could mean it could be at 8 at 2000 RPM, which is inadequate.

 

The boat keeps getting bigger..My daughter took our 06 Volvo s40 to work today as she lives at home works part time and is among the 20 something lazy *** kids today.. She ran up on the concrete parking barrier and tore the plastic front to hell and cant now be driven... Looks about like another $300.00 + bill as i just got back saturday from a $300.00 air conditioning leak... It never F$cking ends...

You can have the pipes fixed by any good copper welder or plumber ... if it is leaking in the heads its because they are not sealing as they want you to change the front adapters.... I will find out what you can seal them with from my rover shop. he is the owner and has worked on my rovers, bought my rovers and i buy most of my parts threw him. He is a honest guy . Let you know tomorrow what he says. his guys are good as most have been with him for over 10 years. That should tell you something...

Let you know tomorrow. Will get you back up and running..

Chris

PS. Anyone paying $4,200.00 for a head gasket job.....Drive your pile down here to miami or have it shipped.... take a vacation for a week on the beach...and drive it back for the same money you where going to pay some F$ck wad just to fix it without your vacation....

 

I'm sorry to hear that you had problems with the repair. I have read through the thread and I have to agree with most of the guys on here that you need to get a Oil pressure test done.

I saw that you have already done your front cover and oil pump before so, I was wondering if you used a new O-Ring on the pickup tube when you did it the first time? A bad O-Ring on the pickup tube will suck air in and lower your oil pressure.

In my poinion, Oil coming out of that square hole in the bell housing really sounds like the rear main seal went. Does it look like the oil is coimg out of the square hole only or is it running down the side of the bell from the top and just finally dripping at the bottom?

 

Sorry to hear that Valdez! Sometimes its hard to believe that saying, "everything happens for a reason"... More of seeing how much you can take before you crack!

As far as the oil pick up goes, I don't think I did change the o-ring. The oil leak seems to only come out of that hole. I wipe it away and out it comes. I don't see anything leaking around the bell. When I had the truck jacked up in the front the leak got worse.

 

It might be worth it to drop the oil sump and check the sump gasket to make sure it's okay. It is easy to twist the gasket while putting the sump back on and it could be leaking. While you're under there you can look up in the motor for a possible cause for the tick and check the bottom of the oil pan for metal and stuff. Check the oil pick up tube screen for blockage and put a new o-ring on. You should also be able to get a better look at your flex plate to see if it's cracked (Possible cause for tick).

 

If the rear seal some White Shepherd (now Blue Devil) rear main sealer may help, that's a lot of rubber and the product makes it swell. Also be sure your PCV vent in passenger valve cover (oil separator) isn't clogged, which can make a slight pressure in the vented area of the engine, making seals have pressure that is not normally there and leak. Pix of 2 O rings, one soaked in White Shephard.