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  #61  
Old 12-19-2011, 06:48 PM
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Yes a clogged oil separator could cause whitish smoke from oil being sucked into the engine and being burned.
Alot of oil and the smoke will be blueish, alittle and it can be whitish.
 
  #62  
Old 12-19-2011, 08:15 PM
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Okay took off the upper manifold and tested all the fuel injectors and on the OHM meter I posted on another post it went from 8 to 0 on all injectors. I put it al back together and started shooting carb cleaner around and got a hit...my front passenger side injector was sucking it down...I took a screw driver and pushed it down and it got better...do I need to order a new fuel injector or just take it all apart again and try to reseat it? I may have hit it when doing the head job, not sure. I lost my girlfriend over this truck cause I spend all my time on it. Need some advice...
 
  #63  
Old 12-19-2011, 08:22 PM
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You can always get another girlfriend, a good truck is hard to find.
I would try reseating the injector first, you have nothing to loose.
Take it back out completely, then put it back.
 
  #64  
Old 12-19-2011, 08:38 PM
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while it was apart I put another set of 8mm wires on it just in case the last ones were bad. Last wires put on 3 weeks ago. pulling codes 300, 304 and 150 now...smoking out the tail pipe like my 2 ex pissed off wives and it smells like ammonia...it did over heat, shot coolant out of expansion tank lid but I may have had it loose not sure cause i was smelling it for exhaust fumes. The temp after it overheated was 183 so I think I may not have had the cap tight on the expansion but not really sure. I have called numerous indy shops in the area and no one calls me back, must be the slow south. I'm a yankee so I'm used to fast its all slow here...Im about to pull the heads off and start all over again...my christmas will be tearing this beast apart again. I want to get it pressure tested but all autozone and Orilleys have are the tester that go on the rad cap not expansion tank. I guess its time for a craigslist ad...at times I miss Pa, I knew just where to go...
 
  #65  
Old 12-19-2011, 08:40 PM
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i agree spike, i will take it apart again and reseat it. sadly I still will send her gifts, just how I am. I love the Rover but as of late its killing me.
 
  #66  
Old 12-19-2011, 08:46 PM
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I am about an hour from New Orleans which is the closest dealer and when I call them to ask the simplest question like size of a wrench to remove the fan they are clueless so I will die before I take it to that place. The bitch is that this is my daily driver, I gave my ex my Saab 9-5 Aero which I loved and bought this after I was in a bad accident and totaled my XK8 conv. Sadly with the shift in the economy and all my losses here I am...I have been here for 5 months and no one knows anything about my truck, its just a truck so Im confused...
 
  #67  
Old 12-19-2011, 09:37 PM
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Best of luck man, maybe Santa will be kind to you.
 
  #68  
Old 12-20-2011, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by aarongregor
while it was apart I put another set of 8mm wires on it just in case the last ones were bad. Last wires put on 3 weeks ago. pulling codes 300, 304 and 150 now...smoking out the tail pipe like my 2 ex pissed off wives and it smells like ammonia...it did over heat, shot coolant out of expansion tank lid but I may have had it loose not sure cause i was smelling it for exhaust fumes. The temp after it overheated was 183 so I think I may not have had the cap tight on the expansion but not really sure. I have called numerous indy shops in the area and no one calls me back, must be the slow south. I'm a yankee so I'm used to fast its all slow here...Im about to pull the heads off and start all over again...my christmas will be tearing this beast apart again. I want to get it pressure tested but all autozone and Orilleys have are the tester that go on the rad cap not expansion tank. I guess its time for a craigslist ad...at times I miss Pa, I knew just where to go...
Wait, don't pull the heads yet. ammonia smell is normal, thats what it suppose to smell like. Test it over again with making sure the cooling system is completely purged of air, cap is on tight, etc. then from a cold start through a half hour of run time after warm up complete observe/record everything you notice going on(sequence of events). Also check by feel the pressure at the upper radiator hose and temp gauge about every five minutes. Then report back with us everything you know and we'll go from there. I can't imagine there being anything wrong with your head gasket job.
 
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Old 12-20-2011, 06:40 PM
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Thanks 2001SE7 I have to take the upper manifold off again to reseat the front passenger fuel injector, I will keep an eye on it and update daily.
 
  #70  
Old 12-21-2011, 06:43 AM
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You're getting close here..
I think you rolled your intake gasket. on #4cyl.
The intake gasket can accidentally get folded over when installing the intake manifold (even if you're careful).
You could quick check this by running the engine with the maf disconnected from the air box put your hand over it and listen for whistling on r/s. Of course it will stall and set new codes. You won't see this physically especially with the valve covers on because the rubber gasket covers it.
As I've previously recommended that you check engine compression and vacuum leaks, I will revisit this recommendation.
Basic diagnotic procedures for running problems include these procedures and can save you and us a lot of time trying to help solve this issue.
As far as your overheating issues you need to find the ROOT CAUSE for all this. ie: coolant leak, cooling fan radiator, tstat, or all..
I would suspect originally your intake manifold was loose and the rear cylinders #7/8 were drinking coolant. Head gaskets... yeah they leak too. You said your heads were .003" you didn't overheat that severely. You'll need to address the issue of your electric cooling fans being either shorted or seized. You need a cooling fan. You also need a cooling system that works. If theres a restriction in your radiator or your tsat is bad you will have an overheat problem as well.

I'm saying this from over 30 yrs of auto experience and will share one of my stories with you.
I did a set of head gaskets not to long ago on one of my own Rovers. It ran fine before I took it apart by the way, It just had a leak. I've done thousands of these (really), so it's just a walk in the park for me. Pulled the heads and resurfaced, pulled the valves check guides and clean, replace seals and yes slapped it back together. Well... It didn't run very well at all when done AND it ran hot. Did a compression test and found #4 cyl with 35 psi compression. I also checked for vacuum leaks by pressurizing the intake system and found I rolled the intake gasket on the #2 cylinder. had to remove 1 head and replace an oval valve, replace an intake gasket which I accidentally destroyed, and replaced the clogged radiator.
Nobody is immune to this nonsense,
Again... basic diagnostic procedures can and will eliminate what is not a problem and save you time finding the real problem.
 

Last edited by threalassmikeg; 12-21-2011 at 09:49 AM.


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