Heated Up: No Symptoms otherwise...
#11
Shane, not hijacked at all- I've always wondered what was normal. Since my engine is brand new, my first thought last night was, "Oh- so THIS is how it's supposed to act...".
Yes- the "CLIMAXED" picture is the highest. Both of my Discos, a 2000 and the 2004 have always (since I first bought the 2000 in Oct 2008) looked exactly like the "NORMAL" picture- they've never gone higher.
I haven't diagnosed my engine fan yet, but I'm hoping that was the cause and is just a fuse or something.
I also have to get one of those scan gauges!
If you're running good and your scan gauge says 208 or lower, I'd say you're fine, but Mike's input will be the definitive answer.
Yes- the "CLIMAXED" picture is the highest. Both of my Discos, a 2000 and the 2004 have always (since I first bought the 2000 in Oct 2008) looked exactly like the "NORMAL" picture- they've never gone higher.
I haven't diagnosed my engine fan yet, but I'm hoping that was the cause and is just a fuse or something.
I also have to get one of those scan gauges!
If you're running good and your scan gauge says 208 or lower, I'd say you're fine, but Mike's input will be the definitive answer.
#12
#13
I'm not following your logic (experience).
#14
I have the same Experience as Audi. When I was running a cracked block in the Disco, I punched the guts out of the t-stat, and it ran cool. It would hit normal at idling, but as soon as the wind started passing over the radiator, she cooled down near the blue (this was winter).
Did it for a few weeks.
Did it for a few weeks.
#15
I am a Audi tech and have never heard of removing a tstat causing a engine to run too warm. My experience tells me he may be experiencing a air pocket in the system. I use a air lift to provide suction to the entire cooling system this allows coolant to be sucked back into the system and remove any air pockets. With some older A4's the heater core holds a huge chunk of air. We have also had sediment in the heater core cause low flow and thus causing this same type of concern. IE engine gets too hot, bleeds off overheated coolant through pressure cap and then causes a air pocket.
Did they flush the remaining cooling system parts when replacing the block? Is it possible that maybe there is a small clog in the system somewhere that was not addressed when engine was removed and installed?
Just a couple of thoughts.
Did they flush the remaining cooling system parts when replacing the block? Is it possible that maybe there is a small clog in the system somewhere that was not addressed when engine was removed and installed?
Just a couple of thoughts.
#16
Thanks for the input, Brad!
Here's an update, guys:
It didn't heat up all morning, even though I putted around in a city and everything. Then, just now, it began climbing pulling into my driveway. I cranked the heat up to HI, and revved it a little, and it started cooling.
Here's the thing: the fan was spinning the WHOLE time.
Would you then say air-pocket? Is it likely that this could develop suddenly though, even though the coolant reservoir isn't low at all?
Here's an update, guys:
It didn't heat up all morning, even though I putted around in a city and everything. Then, just now, it began climbing pulling into my driveway. I cranked the heat up to HI, and revved it a little, and it started cooling.
Here's the thing: the fan was spinning the WHOLE time.
Would you then say air-pocket? Is it likely that this could develop suddenly though, even though the coolant reservoir isn't low at all?
#17
When it is sitting at idle does your heat inside the cabin go away?
This can be a tell tale sign of a air pocket in the heater core.
Of course I am not completely familiar with the Land rover designed cooling system, I am going off my general knowledge of automotive repair. Been fixing my own cars for 23 years.
This can be a tell tale sign of a air pocket in the heater core.
Of course I am not completely familiar with the Land rover designed cooling system, I am going off my general knowledge of automotive repair. Been fixing my own cars for 23 years.
#18
#19
First, never turn off an engine, if no coolant is leaking, while it is overheating, that will burn it up. Pull off the road, open your windows and turn the heater to the highest position to all the heater to cool your engine down.
As for the suggestion about removing your t/stat, "NEVER" remove a t/stat unless you want to over heat your engine.
Now for your issue, was the t/stat replaced, is your front electrical fan working?
As for the suggestion about removing your t/stat, "NEVER" remove a t/stat unless you want to over heat your engine.
Now for your issue, was the t/stat replaced, is your front electrical fan working?
Your hoses may get FIRM, with 15psi in them (hot, too @ 200deg.)
When it's hot and you're nervous, Get a meat thermometer, strap it to your upper hose, wrap a rag around shaft, you'll get a fairly accurate reading, then remove.
Did the new block have a new temp sensor?
luck,greg
#20
I dont think the tstat is the problem. I think there is a air pocket in the heater core. At idle the heat would bleed off the heater core thus causing the heat coming out of the vents to be cooler than at full heat. At idle for 10 min should do the trick. If you are still getting heat then the heater core does not have a air pocket. That does not eliminate there being one in the engine.