heater issues
#3
RE: heater issues
i have the same problem. i checked the coolant, was a little low. but still the issue. i visited my mechanic today and we looked at it and we are thinking the heater core may be clogged. i also have a slow leak around the throttle body, on the underside. a gasket should do the trick on that.
#4
RE: heater issues
Dave, you might have a air bubble in your cooling system, bleed your system and see what happens.
And your leaking throttlebody is a $5 gasket, www.atlanticbritish.com, or your local LR dealer.
And your leaking throttlebody is a $5 gasket, www.atlanticbritish.com, or your local LR dealer.
#6
RE: heater issues
Yes air. If there is a air pocket in the heater, which is a common place for them to build up.
Because of your t-body leak it is very possible youi sucked air into the system.
You will need to fix the leak first otherwise you will have the exact same problem after you drive it for the first time.
Start with a cold engine, remove the bleed screw on the "T" on the top radiator hose.
Fill your coolant resevoir until coolant comes out of the hole, replace the bleed screw.
Start the truck turning the heater on full hot, both sides.
Keep the coolant resevoir full, keep a eye on the temp gauge and keep checking for heat.
If you set the HVAC to vent you can just stick your hand in the window and feel for heat.
Keep the resevoir full of coolant, once a steady stream of steam comes out of the resevoir replace the cap.
Do not turn the engine off until you have replaced the radiator cap.
Next morning check the coolant level, repeat the next morning.
Top off as necassary, after 2-3 days of no coolant level drop then you are good to go.
If the radiator cap is on then the air cannot escape because it is a closed system.
If the heater is not on then the coolant will not flow through the heater and push the air out.
If you do not keep the radiator full while bleeding the system then you will suck more air.
Because of your t-body leak it is very possible youi sucked air into the system.
You will need to fix the leak first otherwise you will have the exact same problem after you drive it for the first time.
Start with a cold engine, remove the bleed screw on the "T" on the top radiator hose.
Fill your coolant resevoir until coolant comes out of the hole, replace the bleed screw.
Start the truck turning the heater on full hot, both sides.
Keep the coolant resevoir full, keep a eye on the temp gauge and keep checking for heat.
If you set the HVAC to vent you can just stick your hand in the window and feel for heat.
Keep the resevoir full of coolant, once a steady stream of steam comes out of the resevoir replace the cap.
Do not turn the engine off until you have replaced the radiator cap.
Next morning check the coolant level, repeat the next morning.
Top off as necassary, after 2-3 days of no coolant level drop then you are good to go.
If the radiator cap is on then the air cannot escape because it is a closed system.
If the heater is not on then the coolant will not flow through the heater and push the air out.
If you do not keep the radiator full while bleeding the system then you will suck more air.
#7
#8
RE: heater issues
No problem.
If you had replaced the heater core and then bleed the system you never would have know it was a free fix.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ERR6623.cfm
If you had replaced the heater core and then bleed the system you never would have know it was a free fix.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ERR6623.cfm
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ls1morethanyou
Discovery II
11
01-12-2017 10:21 AM
nelbra
General Range Rover Discussion - Archived
2
03-21-2010 03:30 PM