^^ been there, true enough.

If you are bleeding a D2 manually it is not good enough to just pump till you get a clear stream once.

You have to *carefully* drive it after the first bleed, then bleed again, then drive again and while driving again, activate the ABS by slamming on the brakes till you hear the "buzzer" in the dash and see the TC light come on... being sure you feel the ABS pulsing.

Then bleed again... noting it may take more than one bleed again to get it good enough that the ABS will activate. Then activate the ABS a few extra times for good measure.

Otherwise you should use the tool to activate the ABS electronically to make it easier.

 

You know I can replace waterpumps, heatercores, radiators, headgaskets etc.. but stories like these make me never want to touch my brakes. I'm pinching pennies right now to get an indy shop to do mine and be done with it. Changing pads are one thing but I dont want anything to do with the bleeding procedure. Plus knowing my luck I trip the ABS amigo and be in another mess all together.

 

FWIW, I have always just bled my brakes manually in the order per RAVE (RF, LF, RR, LR), then engaged low range, 1st gear, manual mode, and HDC and driven up and down my street trying to keep it over 5MPH and letting the ABS bring it back to less than 5MPH.

 

Have you tried pumping the pedal with the engine off? If you can get a pedal when it's off, it could be a power/vac issue. If you're sure it has fluid, and there are no leaks and just don't have a pedal at all (engine on or off)....it could be master cyl failure.

As mentioned, the brakes should work regardless of the ABS issues. Did you ever run it out of fluid or open the system to air BEFORE the ABS system? If you did that, you could be a much more involved bleeding process. I'm sure people here can help you with that, but it's above my pay grade.

I'd try to see if you can pump it up when the engine is off. Then I'd try to see if you can bleed it with the pedal. If you can't do either, you're probably looking some sort serious failure in the system. If that's the case, I'd bite the bullet and take it to a shop if it were mine.

In any case, start at the beginning and see what will work and what won't. Start ruling things out. Fluid...yes or no. Leaks...yes or no. Pedal stiffens up when engine off....yes or no. Etc.

 

Your brakes can be bleed in the conventional way. If you go to the Australia site they can show you how to run you pump without a hawkeye.

 

[QUOTE=drowssap;485773]Your brakes can be bleed in the conventional way. If you go to the Australia site they can show you how to run you pump without a hawkeye. I would lok for a leak or a bad master

 

Can I get an address? please and thank you D

 

I bet the master cylinder went out.
We had the same problem on our DI but it was taken into service promptly.

The way to stop it would have been to pull the hand brake.

I probably would not be smart enough to think that fast.